AMZ FX ANALOG ALCHEMY GEOFX MEF ROG MEF DIY WIKI

First pedal using dark T-shirt transfer *PIC*

Started by Bill_F, January 07, 2004, 06:45:58 PM

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JN

#20
January 08, 2004, 06:30:09 AM
Epoxy should make a durable finish-- more so than lacquer.  

Beautiful work!

Chris R

#21
January 08, 2004, 08:37:07 AM
very cool!!!

is the red from the transfer too ?

C

Bill_F

#22
January 08, 2004, 08:41:16 AM
Quote from: Chris Rvery cool!!!

is the red from the transfer too ?

C

Everything you see is from the transfer. Its great stuff!

Bill

Peter Snowberg

#23
January 08, 2004, 09:19:15 AM
Does that mean the color is all ink-jet ink? I would really worry about color-fastness if so. Archive quality pigments exist, but archive quality dyes (inks) are only available in black that I know of.

It still looks top notch! 8)

You might want to print up a color circle and leave it in the sun to see how long the color does last.

take care,
-Peter
Eschew paradigm obfuscation

gez

#24
January 08, 2004, 12:04:36 PM
Quote from: Peter SnowbergDoes that mean the color is all ink-jet ink? I would really worry about color-fastness if so. Archive quality pigments exist, but archive quality dyes (inks) are only available in black that I know of.

It still looks top notch! 8)

You might want to print up a color circle and leave it in the sun to see how long the color does last.

take care,
-Peter

I'm a bit hazy on the details (been a while since I worked with resin), but many epoxy coatings have UV protection in order to prevent the epoxy from 'chalking', so I wouldn't worry about it Bill...

edit: PS top notch job Bill!
"They always say there's nothing new under the sun.  I think that that's a big copout..."  Wayne Shorter

Bill_F

#25
January 08, 2004, 12:26:28 PM
Quote from: Peter SnowbergDoes that mean the color is all ink-jet ink? I would really worry about color-fastness if so. Archive quality pigments exist, but archive quality dyes (inks) are only available in black that I know of.

take care,
-Peter

Yeah its all inkjet. Hopefully the epoxy does have some UV protection in it like Gez says. Is that something specific I should be looking for, or does all epoxy have that? Every step of the way only brings up more questions.  The adventure continues. :D

Mark Hammer

#26
January 08, 2004, 12:31:51 PM
What's most impressive is the richness/saturation of the colours.

Just one thing, though.  Where does the white come from?  I know you can mix colours of light to get white, but when you use pigments it is subtractive mixtures, rather than additive, so the white can't come from the printer itself.

How'd you do that?

gez

#27
January 08, 2004, 12:32:50 PM
Quote from: Bill_FHopefully the epoxy does have some UV protection in it like Gez says. Is that something specific I should be looking for, or does all epoxy have that?

Some of the thick epoxy resins that are used for laminating don't have UV protection and need a coat of paint once cured, but if the stuff you've used is manufactured as a coating I'd be suprised if it didn't have UV protection (might say on the tin?).
"They always say there's nothing new under the sun.  I think that that's a big copout..."  Wayne Shorter

Chris R

#28
January 08, 2004, 12:54:28 PM
Quote from: Mark Hammer
Just one thing, though.  Where does the white come from?  I know you can mix colours of light to get white, but when you use pigments it is subtractive mixtures, rather than additive, so the white can't come from the printer itself.

I bet since it's the Dark T-Shirt Transfer... the base is White rather than clear.  I can't find any details on the paper though.. anyone confirm ?

C

Mike Nichting

#30
January 08, 2004, 02:20:28 PM
Yeah Mark, the T-shirt transfer is white and you design the layout in Paint or whatever program you choose. Set the background color and add the names of the dials etc. You can choose a black background and do white lettering.
I left this message for you in an earlier post but I'm not sure if you read it Mark. I knew you were after white lettering.

Now you guys know what the fuss is about wghen we talk about the T-shirt transfer~!!
This stuff is expensive but you can get about 3-4 BB sized boxes out of one sheet. I would post pics of my pedals but I can't for some reason. even on my Yahoo account. I have an all black pedal with white lettering that looks sweet.

The above pic that started this post is very,very nice and the sky is the limit to what you can do with these transfers.

Good l;uck everyone.

mike N.
"It's not pollution thats hurting the earth, it's the impurities in the water and air that are doing it".
Quoted from a Vice President Al Gore speech

travissk

#31
January 08, 2004, 02:21:44 PM
I ran some searches the first time I saw this thread (for pricing), and it does look like the base color is white.

Bill_F

#32
January 08, 2004, 05:37:29 PM
Quote from: Mark HammerWhat's most impressive is the richness/saturation of the colours.

Just one thing, though.  Where does the white come from?  I know you can mix colours of light to get white, but when you use pigments it is subtractive mixtures, rather than additive, so the white can't come from the printer itself.

How'd you do that?

Mark,

Like Mike said on the other post, the white does come from the transfer. The colors are printed on top of a white base, therefore you can't get clear, everywhere there is no ink would be white.

Its an Avery product. and is called "Dark T-Shirt Transfer". The product number here in the UK is C9406-4. It is pretty expensive. The pack I got only had 4 sheets in it and I think it was almost 9 pounds (with the current exchange rate thats about $16.00 U.S.). It's probably much cheaper EVERYWHERE else! :( But it is easy to use and gets nice results, so I think it is worth it. Plus you can probably do 2 or 3 pedals with one sheet if you only do the top.

If you try it, follow Charlies advice and don't over do it. It is easy to iron to long and it will smear. That happened to me the first time, and its kind of a pain to get off. I used the same temperature setting I use for Press-N-Peel, ironing for about 2 minutes with light pressure and kept the iron moving. It's pretty easy. Real easy compared to P-N-P.

The only thing I wasn't that happy with was the epoxy I used. It was hard to put on smoothly. I think I might try another brand next time. Does anybody have any suggestions?

Oh and one other thing. I believe you spoke about using a color laser printer from work. I'm not sure if that will work, this is an Inkjet product. I wonder what the heat produced by the laser when it fuses the ink onto the page would do to that white base. You might end up with a real mess and a big repair bill. I'm only guessing at this and could be completely wrong but the thought scares me a bit.

Anyway hope this helps. It would be nice to help you for a change, you've helped me so much in the past.

Bill

P.S. I have an EZ Vibe thats ready to be boxed in the next week or so. I'll post a picture when it's done.

dan

#33
January 08, 2004, 06:14:02 PM
man that is awsome. i'm ganna have to try it sometime.

peace.
-Dan

petemoore

#34
January 09, 2004, 12:24:23 PM
Heat the box itself on a burner or in the oven and then apply the transfer?
 Having never done it and only reading many posts on the finishing xubjects, it just seems like it would be easy to get the box evenly and precisely heated using an oven at a preset heat...I suppose you'd have to get a perfect lineup of the transfer on the first shot that way...I'm sure a way could be devised to align transfers consistantly...?
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Hairston

#35
January 10, 2004, 10:45:29 AM
Wow, I'll say it again, OUTSTANDING my friend!

I read the article that Steve Daniels wrote on the TweakO (good stuff!) and have always wanted to try the brush on epoxy stuff. I have always used a spray lacquer finish and then just buffed it. Can you tell us what kind of brush on epoxy (brand?) you suggest with this type of transfer?

Thanks!

-HB

Bill_F

#36
January 10, 2004, 05:10:32 PM
Quote from: HairstonWow, I'll say it again, OUTSTANDING my friend!

I read the article that Steve Daniels wrote on the TweakO (good stuff!) and have always wanted to try the brush on epoxy stuff. I have always used a spray lacquer finish and then just buffed it. Can you tell us what kind of brush on epoxy (brand?) you suggest with this type of transfer?

Thanks!

-HB

Thanks Hairston for the kind words. The epoxy I have is by a company called Ripmax. I'm not that happy with it though, it is very hard to get on smooth. Though, maybe that's the way all epoxy is. I've never worked with the stuff until now.
I got it in a hobby shop. I think they use it to coat the skins of the model airplanes they fly.

MRTelec

#37
January 10, 2004, 06:28:06 PM
Has anyone tried using heat resistant spray paint with the iron-on transfers?

Dan N

#38
January 10, 2004, 07:01:28 PM
Quote from: MRTelecHas anyone tried using heat resistant spray paint with the iron-on transfers?

Not I.

Must confess trying once to bake on a clear coat. Ugh. The white parts of the transfer yellowed. Looks antique!

Another time (Christmas eve!) I had to dry a clear coat fast, so kept turning my toaster oven on and off just to keep things warm without getting too hot. It seemed to be working, then I looked at the box and the transfer had weirded out into a texture like dimples on a golf ball. Kind of great in a desperate way. Still have not heard if my 13 year old neice liked the a.m. radio. Oops, I mean silicon fuzz face...

MRTelec

#39
January 10, 2004, 07:54:42 PM
How does this stuff compare to Papillo?
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