Wiring right-angle plugs

[DaveTV]

I recently found a very long guitar cable in my magical mystery box of stuff (where did I expect to be going with such a long cable plugged in?) and decided to convert it into a bunch of smaller patch cables.

I bought a bunch of cheap DGS right angle plugs (based on Switchcraft 228s) and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for wiring them up. The plugs are nickel-plated and have only one lug for the tip connection. I expect I'll need to solder the ground directly to the plug's casing. Should I expect the solder to hold firm to the casing?

It's pretty clear to me now why these things were so cheap.

[Impaler]

For the most part, I've never had a solder joint fail on those where the joint is on the case. You'll probably have more of a worry of the wire itself breaking off before the solder joint does

[niftydog]

I'd be more worried about whether your soldering iron has the guts to make a proper solder joint.

A dodgy soldering job is a recipe for disaster.  Make sure when you do these joints that the solder melts and flows completely, or the join is more likely to either fail completely or not make a good electrical contact.

Even the expensive Neutrik connectors have the same method for connecting the shield to the casing.  What you will notice with cheap plugs is that the plastic melts before the casing is hot enough to take the solder!  Especially if your soldering iron isn't temp controlled or is lacking in wattage.

[smoguzbenjamin]

Try fanning the wire out before soldering it to the case. That way you'l get more surface area soldered up and hopefully more grip I hope it works

[Mike Burgundy]

Even Neutriks will melt if you insist on using a small-tipped 12W electronics iron: this thing doesn't have enough power so you have to leave it on for a minute or two: sloppy, dry solderjoint and damaged plug....
Use a 30 or 40W iron, preferably with temp. control.
I have a regulated one that I set for 200-250 (Celsius) for electronics and 350 for plugs and jacks. Works fine.

[BDuguay]

I've melted a few insulaters in the past trying to get a good solder connection. An alternative is to fold back the wire braid sheild so that it is sandwiched between the connector back shell, and the cable itself.

Brizee

[petemoore]

IME certain metals like RS jack lugs [tuff but not impossible...] and plug casings won't accept solder. It rolls off from the heat.
 I've tried them at plastic blistering temperatures to be certain.
 I used to clamp the shield wired between the top and bottom plates of the plug casing.

[niftydog]

certain metals like RS jack lugs and plug casings won't accept solder

Have you tried cleaning them?  Also, a brisk scrub with some light gauge wet 'n' dry sandpaper removes the coating, and if need be the plating.

Soldering pot cases is the same, you should always scrape the area you wish to solder.