Installing a 3PDT in a Boss effect

[SM]

This is a short description on how to install a 3PDT for a TBP in a BOSS effect.
The pics are on www.bostream.nu/homepage (1-7 JPG). (I don’t know how to insert them here).
1.   Remove the “hat” with gentle force (pic 1 and 2),
2.   The hat removed (pic 3).
3.   Install the 3PDT without any whiskers on the underside (pic 4).
4.   Remove (with a file) approximately 1-0,0787 inch (2 mm) from the now exposed top (pic 5).
5.   To further increase necessary space for the board the small fangs (?) can be bent (pic 6 and 7).

I removed the ON/OFF FET’s from the board, which automatically resulted in that the effect always was on “ON”.
The board then is connected as any other board to the 3PDT.

This was easily done once I understood how to do it... - and it works beautiful.


:-)
Bjorn

[Kleber AG]

:shock:
W O W !!!!!
 I had been thinking about that for so long. Now I know how to do that, THANKS SO MUCH, for sharing.

Best regards
Kleber AG

[zenpeace69]

Do you have a picture of what components (the fets) you are removing?  I would likely rehouse any boss pedal I wanted to tb, anyhow, but I think your tutorial is great.

[SM]

Thank you for the feedback!
To find the FET’s are simple. There are surely a hundred guys here that know how to describe this better than me.
If you go to http://fuzzcentral.tripod.com/DS1.html and look at Phillip’s picture of the opened DS1 you’ll see something that looks like a pair of transistors just above some resistors on the low, left side. These are the ON/OFF FET’s. I removed mine and the effect was always ON. Quite simple actually. If you go to http://www.jpl-audio.com/images/alwayson.pdf there is a good explanation.
In the BOSS effects I looked the FET’s are installed as a pair â€" similar to the picture on Phillip’s page. If you short the legs (briefly) you’ll be able to determine which one is ON and which is OFF.

Good Luck!
:-)
Bjorn

[RedHouse]

Any chance you could make some smaller pic's? my cheapass ISP takes forever to download big pics.

[LH]

Shouldn't the conversion also involve rewiring the on/off LED to the 3PDT as well? Otherwise, won't it always be lit?

[Ansil]

for smaller pictures you can check out the tutorial i did although it isn't in as indepth

http://www.geocities.com/austenfantanio/weedingout/boss.htm

there was a wav file toh ere it clickin but i lost it in the transistion

[SM]

Shouldn't the conversion also involve rewiring the on/off LED to the 3PDT as well? Otherwise, won't it always be lit?

Yes!

:-)
Bjorn

[analogmike]

HI,

Very cool, I never knew the top of the blue 3pdt switch could come off!!!

I tried but I dont think it will work on a normal boss pedal (I tried a DS1) as you would have to remove too much metal from the top of the switch to get the battery compartment to close. If you take off enough for the lid to close, you will not be able to press the switch down enough for it to latch. If you lower the switch it will hit the circuit board. Maybe it will work on some Boss pedals but not in the new DS1 :-(

[Kleber AG]

:cry:  So I guess it would be worse if I'd try with my RV-2 (big board) and the circuits with big boards like Chorus, EQ etc...

I'm not home now so I can't verify that for sure...
Kleber AG

[Ansil]

hmm didnt' have that problem

[SM]

Mike,
I’m honoured    (I’ve owned a TS9 modded by you â€" best TS I’ve had).

You did try this, you don’t speculate? You tried it with the hat removed and 2mm removed from the exposed top? No whisker underneath?
Is this a modded DS1 we’re talking about?

So far I’ve done this only to a modded CE2 â€" and it worked beautifully â€" with room to spare. It is, so far, 100% functional (3 rehersals with the band).
I have to try this on my DIY Keeley modded DS1 (Phillips receipt - up till now the best effect I’ve ever owned).
I’ll get back with a report.

:-)
Bjorn

[analogmike]

>I’m honoured    (I’ve owned a TS9 modded by you â€" best TS I’ve had).

Glad to hear that!

>> You did try this, you don’t speculate? You tried it with the hat removed and 2mm removed from the exposed top? No whisker underneath?
Is this a modded DS1 we’re talking about? <<

Yes. A new Taiwan DS1. I did not yet remove the 2mm but I can see that removing 2mm on the switch will be less than 5mm change at the thumbscrew area and that will not be enough... I THINK!

I am using the blue EH 3pdt switch.

Good luck and let me know if your DS1 was OK for the mod.

[SM]

I will (wow, that was a fast response).
I use Aron's 3PDT. Dont' know the brand on these.

:-)
Bjorn

[SM]

I will (wow, that was a fast response).
I use Aron's 3PDT. Dont' know the brand on these.
Edit: I didn't - it's from Custom Sounds, brand unknown.
:-)
Bjorn

I now tested to install a 3PDT in a Taiwan DS1 (brand new). Mike is right (of course) â€" it doesn’t work the way I described it earlier.

There are several reasons for this:
1. The 3PDT I used in my CE2 is dark blue and actually larger than the light blue (LB) I bought from Aron. The dark blue (DB) probably comes from Custom Sounds in Sweden.
The action on the DB is different than the LB â€" possibly a shorter action (pic “3PDT CE2 DS1” www. bostream.bu/homepage).
2. The Japanese made CE2 enclosure is different from the Taiwan made DS1.
On the inside of the cover on the DS1 there is a “heel” elevation, approx 1mm high, the CE2 lacks this heel. My Japanese GE7 has a very small/shallow one (pic “Ins cvr DS1 and CE2”). This heel strengthens the lid but limits the action of the switch and forces it down into the box â€" not good.
3. The rubber ring that sits on the backside and connects to the lid screw limits the action on the DS1 but not on the CE2.
I removed it on the DS1. The backside metal of the DS is thicker (pic “Cvr DS1 CE2”).  
4. The “box” of the CE2 may have different measures compared to the DS1.
They are NOT identical.

Nevertheless, it is possible to install the Light Blue 3PDT in a Taiwan made box as well.
It takes some more work though.
1. The switch MUST be installed without the whisker â€" otherwise the board will not come down into the box.
2. Remove as much from the exposed top (pole) as you dare… But not more then that the top is even/flush? with the shaft when pressed down. I estimate the thickness of the top of the pole to be approx. 4mm, the thickness of the hat approx. 1.5mm.
3. Remove, if needed, as much as you dare from the heel (elevation) inside the lid/cover.
4. On the board of the DS1 (Keeley modded by me alá Phillip’s description) the cap C3 must installed flush with the board.

Finally, it’s not so easy to install this light blue 3PDT in the “new house” as compared with the old Japanese style â€" but possible. I’m pretty sure that the dark blue instalment in the CE2 is 100% functional â€" but I’m not sure about the light blue - yet.

:-)
Björn

[YouAre]

I managed to seperate the metal from the blue plastic. But i cant seperate the switch from the steel bracket, how do you do that?

[Kleber AG]

Sorry i do not really understood your question, "what you couldn't remove?".
But I'd like to say that I've made "all" that steps on Boss Delay and now it's a great True-Bypass Delay, when you finhish you get a nice feel about that  

I used to have my 4 boss pedals looped on a DIY true-bypass loop box, and man when tried to switch all the boss pedals out... there was my tone I could find it again. My 4 boss really muddy my tone when buffered bypassed....... :shock:

Were you refering to the removing the hat? Thats just easy to use "aligators?" and force it out with "2" metal tools...
Sorry my english do not allow me to say much...

regards
Kleber AG