Drilling Hammond 1590BB / R.G.'s Template HELP!!!

[analog kid]

I'm ready to drill the holes for my layout onto my box. I was worried it would be difficult to do by "ear" but found The Template for the box that RG made. Well the template says it's for Hammond 1590BB which is exactly what the inside of my box says, BUT when I print out the template , the outline is Definitely smaller than my box!! What gives?? I noticed in the pics on Fuzz Central where Phillip supposedly used that box (I think) that the battery came close to covering the width of the box, there's a good bit of space on either side of the batt. in this one. ARE THERE Two 1590 BBs or Am I printing this template at the wrong "SIZE"?? It comes up saying 93% automatically and the Jacks,pots "paper dolls' look pretty close to actual size.
I'm ready to do this thing now so please someone HELP!!!

[nightingale]

make sure your printer settings are OK.
make sure that "fit to page" is not selected on the printer promt box.
hth,

[analog kid]

It won't work , It doesn't come out like my box nomatter what I do. And I'm sure ive got the sizing right at least once because the jacks, battery etc... are the proper size.  I really believe that the box he used is NOT the same as this Hammond 1590BB that I've got~!
I went on w/ the steps to make my own template FOR THIS exact box. The only part I don't get is after a get the paper wrapped around and the centerlines marked. HOW do you get the appropriate 'MOUNTING LINES" for  The Pots', stomp switch, and side jacks?? Do you just lay the parts on there , pick a good spot and make a new centerline off of the existing one for the components.??
RG's instruct...:"6. Peel up the tape and remove the paper from the box. Punch or cut some small holes in the paper on the centerlines. With that done, you can now reposition the paper very closely on the box.
What are these holes along the two centerlines to accomplisH?
7. Carefully measure the placement of parts for the inside of the box, and mark them on the paper wrapper. Once your marking is complete, you can remove the tape and paper template. The template can be used to mark several identical boxes.
this means you just Lay the parts down there as you want them and just "eye out" there placement and Mark going by the existing centerline???
I don't get that. The premade template has all the min./Max. mounting lines, etc....

[R.G.]

It won't work , It doesn't come out like my box nomatter what I do. And I'm sure ive got the sizing right at least once because the jacks, battery etc... are the proper size. I really believe that the box he used is NOT the same as this Hammond 1590BB that I've got~!

Well, that's possible, as I did that template years ago, and I haven't used that exact one for a while. It is possible that the 1590BB has change. But I can assure you, I used that template myself for marking many boxes.

I went on w/ the steps to make my own template FOR THIS exact box. The only part I don't get is after a get the paper wrapped around and the centerlines marked. HOW do you get the appropriate 'MOUNTING LINES" for The Pots', stomp switch, and side jacks?? Do you just lay the parts on there , pick a good spot and make a new centerline off of the existing one for the components.??

Yep, you got it. On the original, based on making many stompboxes by hand, I eyeballed the locations I wanted, placed parts in, fiddled and futzed around with locations, then marked the places I wanted them on the paper. After that, I used the initial scratching on the paper to firm up the mounting centers and locations with drafting tools so that the locations would be centered, symmetrical, etc. You are correct. It's a royal pain to do this for a single box, as it's quicker to just eyeball it, mark with a pencil and drill the box.

Ah, but that second and all following boxes...

RG's instruct...:"6. Peel up the tape and remove the paper from the box. Punch or cut some small holes in the paper on the centerlines. With that done, you can now reposition the paper very closely on the box.
What are these holes along the two centerlines to accomplisH?

You previously marked centerlines on the box itself (Step 1) and on the paper (step 5). By cutting holes on the centerlines on the paper, you can position the paper, and see through the holes to the centerlines on the box, and line up the paper to the centerlines of the box. That gets the paper centered on the box every time.

7. Carefully measure the placement of parts for the inside of the box, and mark them on the paper wrapper. Once your marking is complete, you can remove the tape and paper template. The template can be used to mark several identical boxes.
this means you just Lay the parts down there as you want them and just "eye out" there placement and Mark going by the existing centerline???
I don't get that. The premade template has all the min./Max. mounting lines, etc....

That's part of what I gave you for free - the benefit of my experience. I have done a lot of eyeballing where parts go, as well as mechanical drawing. I eyeballed where I liked them, then used my experience to add the minimum and maximum placements that I thought would work.

It doesn't have to be done that way. With a good set of mechanical drafting tools, some CAD programs, or a good 3d solid modelling package, you could make 3D drawings/models of the parts and move them around to find the min/max/centers that the parts would/could go, and that may or may not be the same as I put in the template. I put into the template one set of things that I thought were good guidelines. I have no illusion that they're perfect or all-inclusive, just that they work OK for the things that I think most people will do.

Your mileage may vary, of course.

[Outlaws]

Printing to size is a very difficult thing to do sometimes.

If you are printing from Mircosofts default picture viewer, then things get complicated.  If you have access to a program like Photoshop, life is easy.

The problem is that if your screen resolution is 96dpi, then your computer prints at that.  In the past, computers used 72dpi.  So images made at say, 2" x 2" at 72dpi are now no longer 2" because the increase in dpi to 96 ruins the translation.  Picture Viwer only displays and prints the actual pixel count.  Not the embedded image size.

And this works visa versa too.  A 72dpi screen rez will make a 96 dpi pictures bigger than what it is.

[Outlaws]

Furthermore, people like me that create images at 300dpi can't readily open files on other peoples computers becasue the thing only wants to print at screen rez.  Then you are stuck with a image 20x the size you want.

[analog kid]

I'm not going to that much extemes to get it perfect with drafting tools and such,I just want a good symmetrical layout and placement of the pots and swithc to where there not crooked and too far apart. If I can do that with the two centerlines, the paper doll cutouts you made and my eyes that will be great. The lines on the box itself aren't really neccessary if you have the corners clearly marked on the paper to line it up , are they? I already smoothed my box good and hte pencil doesn't seem to ruboff very good so I didn;t complete the marks the liengh of hte box.
also , what 's the best method for doing the Jacks this way?? do you need to make a Center line on the SIDES of the box for this purpose using this method I'm doing?? I can get the layout part in relation to the switch right to where they don't interfere but The centering (up and down on side , may give problems, directly centered on  side??

[bigjonny]

Hammond has an online PDF file with all the exact measurements, BTW.

[mrsage]

The size is perfect.

I've used that template before, and I thought it was too small, too...

But keep in mind that the inside of the box is slightly smaller than the outside because of the thickness of the walls.

Using that template, you can fit everything exactly without having to worry about taking the thickness of the enclosure walls into account.

Cut it out along the lines and put it inside the box...it'll fit like a glove.

[dr]

....best investment I ever made (also the cheapest) was a metal "slide rule caliper" from Big Lots. It cost a buck, if I remember right. I set it for about 3/4 inch and ran it across the top edge of the box to scribe a line to center my pots across the top....then, I scribed from each edge and found the center spot to drill for the switch...I do the same thing for the jacks.....some of it is eyeballing,sure, but there is a set screw to hold the caliper tight, and since each side of the box is symmetrical it comes out pretty good- no more pencil and square.....( I did grind down one of the fingers so it would be a bit more pointed-to be able to scribe easier)....I have laid every box out with it since; I think I even bought my spring-activated center punch there for $2.00....(another good investment) and a cheap drill press for $39.99.....(now if Big Lots only sold surplus Bud Boxes....).....also found a couple of solid brass door kickplates for $5.00 each that I tried my hand at bending in a vise to make a box....(I need more practice at that, but they soldered together real nice with my old timer-Weller soldering gun)..............dr