Hello stompers , question about wha wha

Started by vhollund, January 31, 2005, 08:18:47 PM

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vhollund

Yes I have this Dunlup "Original Crybaby"
Im looking at this diagram her:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/tb3.html


The fulltone switch looks very simular to what is already in in my dunlup...
could I just do the mods with the existing switch and have the same results?

Im not sure if a tech did not already change the switch 8 years ago where I had it looked at for less signal loss.
Thanks

jimbob

never know- but i doubt it. You have some work to do to this thing- Theres a few very cool mods out there. Read the Forum here- some great ideas.
"I think somebody should come up with a way to breed a very large shrimp. That way, you could ride him, then after you camped at night, you could eat him. How about it, science?"

vhollund

Thanks, but why do you doubt it ? , are there many different six fan switches for whas? If so wich one to take?

sir_modulus

Six fan switches would be called DPDT switches...unless your tech put something weird and crazy in there. Do you have a digital multimeter? if so, we can find out if the switch is a DPDT.

Cheers,

Nish

vhollund

Quote from: sir_modulusSix fan switches would be called DPDT switches...unless your tech put something weird and crazy in there. Do you have a digital multimeter? if so, we can find out if the switch is a DPDT.

Cheers,

Nish

Thanks !, yes I have a multimeter , but I have no Idea how to check it.

vhollund

So how can I check it?  :)

The switch has six fans , 3 on two rows , and on both sides fans is numbered "1,2,3"
The two "1"s are soldered together , I have a brown lead to the lower rigth fan, a green to the lower middle fan , blue to the upper rigth fan, and white to the upper middle fan.
The switch looks very solid.

NaBo

set your meter to the audible continuity test if you have it (the picture of sound waves), if not, set it to 200 ohms resistance range.

here's how i'll refer to the lugs of the switch:
____
|1 4|
|2 5|
|3 6|

attach the probes to lugs 1 and 2.  if the buzzer is sounding or you're measuring 0 (or very very very low) resistance, they're connected.  if not, test 2 and 3, they should be.  do the same for the other side, 4 5 6...

then push the switch and map the connections again.  if it's a DPDT you should get the following results:

Switch Pos. 1
1 4
|    |
2 5

3 6

Switch Pos. 2
1 4
 
2 5
|    |
3 6

jimbob

What i meant about " i doubt it" was i thought you were asking if the switch was a Fulltone" switch. As far as the 6 lugs/fans? Im sure its a dpdt. Unwire it and do the mods. Your not going to hurt anything. NOt brain surgury. Although, when I 1st started Im sure i was skiddish bout making too many changes on something i was uncertain about. NOw, i have the "Giver a try! And why the hell not attitude". Experiment. I think testing each lug might be a waste of time. MOST likely it is a dpdt switch that was either wired as true bypass or like a spdt w an extra lug un used. Do the stewart c mods. Easy and fun! If you screw something up- post the question and im sure someone can help from there.
"I think somebody should come up with a way to breed a very large shrimp. That way, you could ride him, then after you camped at night, you could eat him. How about it, science?"

vhollund

Great! good ansvers, Ill just try the mods then and see if its happening.
The way you descripe the DPDT switch , nabou , it must that because it counts
123 , and 123 parralelled.
I'll come back when ive destroyed my Wha    :)  
Thanks!
Vagn

jmusser

Hey Jimbob, I hope to tackle some of those mods you did on your wah sometime. I have that thread copied down somewhere, where you did all the research and experimentation. It was really good information, and I could tell you'd done your homework.
Homer: "Mr. Burns, you're the richest man I know"            Mr. Burns: Yes Homer It's true... but I'd give it all up today, for a little more".

jimbob

jmusser-thanks. I plan on tackling this Vox 847 I just bought and doing the same w that. I hope i can figure out how to post pics sometime and will post as i go along. I know when i first started w effects It was w this Dunlop wah and it all seemed a little tricky . Since then its really pie. Its just a matter of getting the right parts.
"I think somebody should come up with a way to breed a very large shrimp. That way, you could ride him, then after you camped at night, you could eat him. How about it, science?"


vhollund

OK I think I have a problem to solve
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/effects/tb3a.png
I cut the brown wire but the brown wire isnt connected to the input jack as the Diagram shows. The green is and it was cut rigth by the white connector. ijust discovered ,
I fear it has allready been rewired once.

yes on my wha , opposite to the diagramlink, the green cable has been cut by the whte connector and is connected now to the Outjack where the brown is connected on the diagram.

What a mess , its good I dont understand anything :wink:

vhollund

Here is a picture of how it was wired , the green lead was cut.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/265964232/265965180IPKGFK

And this is how it is supposed to be rewired for trueBP by cutting the brown lead.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/effects/tb3a.png

I hope there is an expert here :)