Delays Any Good?

[critch]

Hi, does anyone know if DIY delay pedals are any good?
and can anyone recommend any?
thanks

[Fret Wire]

The Pt-80 is an excellent, anolog-sounding digital delay.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=48&Itemid=80

The Robote2 is nice also, a little less refined maybe. It will fit in a 1590b, though.
http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=27

[nelson]

I built a rebote 2, no way you could fit that into a 1590b. susceptible to clock noise the rebote 2 in longer delay times.

[critch]

hmm, the rebote 2 looks more suitable(smaller and easier...:oops: )
but will buying a pedal be better?

[Fret Wire]

I built a rebote 2, no way you could fit that into a 1590b.

Try harder before you say it can't be done. I wouldn't have said it would fit if I hadn't done it before.

First, use the standard MXR placement for the switch, and jacks. The input/out put jacks need to be high, towards the top of the box, meaning from the bottom, not front to back. The DC jack goes to the side of the 3PDT. You have to use switchcraft 111 and 112 type plastic enclosed jacks. Use 16mm pots with knobs no bigger than 3/4" in dia. in a triangle pattern. Use 3M or whatever double sided foam tape to secure the board trace-side down on top of the pots and the jacks. You have to build up the height on the pots so it's level. The board just clears the switch. All done, three knobs, an LED, and DC jack all in a 1590b.

As long as the board is 2 1/8" wide or less, and 2 1/2" lengthwise, you can put it in a 1590b if you use the plastic jack/pot mounting technique. If you go sideways, Zvex style, you can do even more.

Edit: If you do your own layouts, notch out the board for the front screw bosses, and you can go 2 3/4" in length. Use more resistors standing on end ala Boss, and you'd be surprised what you can stuff in the 1590b. Tonepad's Phase 90 even fits. With notched ends, MXR fit the script Phase 90 with it's 6 IC's in the 1590b!

[Fret Wire]

hmm, the rebote 2 looks more suitable(smaller and easier...:oops: )
but will buying a pedal be better?

You could always hunt around for a Boss DM-2 or DM-3, but they are not cheap, in good condition. The discontinued Arion SAD-1 is a nice sounding delay, and usually can be found in good condition for under $100. It's not super road worthy, you can't go stomping it to death.

The Robote 2 isnt that hard of a build, you'll just have to decide on the cost of the components, time to build, and time to paint vs. just buying a delay. Alot of people just buy modulation pedals, and build the other types themselves. Nothing wrong with that. Its your money and time, spend both how you feel best.

[nelson]

I salute you fretwire, I was proud of myself when I managed to fit a big muff into a 1590b, the rebote2 was very difficult I tried but gave up. Well done on managing to get yours to fit. Sorry if it looked like I accused you of lying I did not mean it as an accusation.

[Fret Wire]

No offense taken like that at all. Most people put the jacks and DC switch at the front of the pedal, so there's no support for long boards. Plus, everyone likes the durability of open-metal Switchcraft type jacks. So it doesn't occur to someone that the plastic jacks can be used to support the far end of the board. I copied the MXR layout because I like it better than the jacks and dc jacks in the front-of the-box style. I always use open frame jacks with small boards, they're better made. The first time I tried a long board in a 1590b, it confounded me when it hit the open jack. So it struck me that I could use the plastic jacks as pcb supports with dbl side foam tape.

Btw, if you file the Robote board down very, very close to the outer traces, it fits either way in the box, it's almost a square board. When it's that tight, it helps if the wires are coming from the front or back of the board, not the sides.

[bwanasonic]

First, use the standard MXR placement for the switch, and jacks....<!-- useful build tips here-->

Thanks for the tips FW

Kerry M

[smccusker]

Delays and Phasers are probably the only pedals I would buy instead of DIY, but thats just because they look scary, and I don't like to challenge myself  

PS, I MIGHT attempt a delay oneday if I ever start etching my own circuit boards. There seems to be a much higher margin for error in a perf build for such a complicated circuit.

[Fret Wire]

You're welcome . You have to make slight adjustments to MXR's layout, because of the 3PDT is thicker than the Carling switches MXR used. Also, with thick plastic battery snaps, the battery won't sit flat against the back of the box. So you have to move the switch a pinch further ahead, and turning it at a slight angle helps. DC jack on one side of the switch, then LED just ahead of the switch. Give it just enough clearance so a chrome LED bezel will clear the stompswitch nut, then the same hole location will work for both chrome bezel's and plastic led holders. Then come the jacks. Everything after is as many pots as you can fit. With 16mm or 9mm pots, the diameter of the knob dictates pot placement just as much as the pot diameter does. With 1/2" knobs, as many pots as you can fit on the inside will fit on the outside.

That's the MXR formula, slightly tweaked. Standardize the switch, led, and jack locations, and the only thing that changes is the number of pots. Half your wiring is now standardized.  :wink: