basic 386 fuzz?

[gasmask]

Recently I found this schematic, it looks pretty simple.

But I don't know how it can be "not complete".
Anyone has ever tried it? I would like to know
if it's verified.

Gas

[kingswayguitar]

pin 5 (output) is being fed back through the 10k gate pot and then to the +ve input (pin 3). not sure why that node is also connected to pin 4 (gnd). i would expect that would create an awful noise on the ground line (hence the fuzz??).  guess i can't help after all?

[therizky]

i imagined this would not sound good at all...

Just use 386 for small amps man.

[smallbearelec]

Hi--

I agree with therizky that the 386 is better-suited for small practice amps. Also, the drawing gives you no clue how to lay out a build mechanically. Would this be your first pedal? If so, look for something that's well-documented and geared to walking you through to something that works and is usable for gigging The Beginner Project on this Forum is a place to start. Here are my thoughts on getting started:

https://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/BeginnerArticle/BeginnerDos.htm

[gasmask]

no, I've already made few pedals.
I'm just looking for the simpliest way
of building it.

[digi2t]

I don't think the 386 should be knocked on that harshly. The Parallel Universe II is 386 based, and the fuzz sounds pretty darned good to me. Very Muff-like. It's got a permanent place on my pedalboard.

I do agree with the "first build" concerns voiced, though. Not something to be built by a first timer. I built my PUII a while back, and it took me a while to get my head around troubleshooting certain problems. Especially the impedance interaction with buffers that can be a real killjoy for the oscillation side of the circuit. Otherwise, a really nice fuzz.

Design-wise, the fact that the layout states "Design is not complete" should be enough warning to merit breadboarding it first. Unless it was verified, and there was proof out there that it works, breadboard first is de rigeur.

[bosleymusic.com]

I don't think the 386 is a very good choice. What you are building is a diode clipping circuit, and I would say a dual op-amp configuration (5532 / TL072) would be a better choice. One stage to preamplify your signal to a level that is meaningful, and a second to give more gain & produce the diode clipping you are looking for. Those are just my two cents.

[smallbearelec]

...I don't know how it can be "not complete".

At the very least, a complete build should have a reverse protection diode, decoupling cap and anti-pop resistor.

Would this be your first pedal?

...I've already made few pedals. I'm just looking for the simpliest way of building it.

OK. As someone else noted, I'd breadboard it first, make sure it works and make sure you like it enough to commit to build. Then you can either look for a perf/vero layout that someone else has done, or take the next BIG step on the road to FX perdition: Do A Layout! Learn to use DIY Layout Creator or EAGLE and take a crack at laying out a board. Looking at the internals of some of the builds here may help you infer good design principles, and I talk about some of my thought processes in the articles on my site. Happy Construction!

SD

[roseblood11]

A 386 can sound very good if it's clipping itself, but I wouldn't use it in a diode clipping circuit. Have a look at the D*A*M Sonic Titan, it's one of the best sounding fuzzes I've ever used.

[Ben N]

Didn't Aron design a nice-sounding 386 distortion?

[kingswayguitar]

post 352:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=100802.20
think of the 386 as a powerful transistor/opamp that provides a high gain block in your design

[pinkjimiphoton]

386's do not have to suck as dirt pedals. <shakes head>

google up stiff hippy overdrive here on the forum, or google dead easy dirt.

with a little pre-filtering, you can make a 386 based overdrive/distortion that is flat out badass.

you can use clipping diodes, too. seriously. go with si for them tho, as ge diodes will make it too dirty in a cool kinda way.

here's a thread with  video,schematic and verified vero. totally stupid easy, and sounds good, too.


http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=96856.0






check the video in the other thread. i've had a lot of these pass thru my bench... they are pretty popular hereabouts.

[digi2t]

People, people, people.... for unruly, raw, in your face fuzz

Lest we forget...

The Uglyface.

[pinkjimiphoton]

AMEN BROTHER DINO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[kingswayguitar]

Well, I couldn't sleep all night so I got up and put this on the breadboard.  Voila!  It works, but..... no fuzz.  A loud boost with only a pinch of distortion.  I was immediately shocked at how quiet it was on the breadboard.

[gasmask]

so it doesn't make any fuzzy tone? Which version of 386 did you use? Couple months ago I've made simple headphone amp based on 386 N-1 and after adding a cap with pot between pins 1&8 it gave me some kind of broken distortion/fuzz. Maybe theese diodes destroy the 'fuzzy' sound.

[Ben N]

Frantone Peach Fuzz uses two 386s in series.

[kingswayguitar]

Hey guys,
I agree the 386 is fully capable of some great distortion and fuzz.  For what it's worth I used the "L" version.  I have a stockpile and used a few for some grace and big baddy builds not long ago.

[diydave]

If you take the "Ruby" from Runoffgroove, and change the buffer to a jfet-booster (with a large bypasscap for source-resistor), you've got a kickass fuzz/distortion.
Put in a swtc at the output to shelf off the highs, and you're good to go.
http://www.diydave.be/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/lm386_walkthrough.mp3