More Press 'n' Peel findings

[Hal]

ive only used FeCl3, but rubbing alcohol takes the the pnp right off...

[moeburn]

I went from terrible at this to really good every time, so I figured I should share some advice.  

I skipped the pricey press 'n peel stuff and went to staples to buy some generic glossy photo paper.  I print it out at the highest resolution I can, and photocopy it onto the photo paper.

I scrub my copper boards with 0000 steel wool, all in one direction not circular (it has made a difference for me), rub a little varsol on them, then wash them with soap.  Pat them dry, and put them in a ziploc until i'm ready to use them (usually right after).

I empty the water out of my iron, preheat it to the highest setting, and purge all the remaining water out.  I cut out the pcb, put it on the copper board, and put the iron flat on it.  I leave it like that for a minute, then i rub it vigorously for 2 minutes, then i quickly dunk it in water.  I wait 5 minutes, then i peel the paper away (it shouldn't have to dissolve it should just peel).  

That process works perfectly every time.  For etching I prefer to H202+HCl (brick cleaning muriatic acid, and non-creamy hair bleach), since it works about twice as fast and is clear so you can see the progess.  Unfortunately the stuff is EXTREMELY dangerous to use, if you so much as swish the solution around in the (plastic) container, fumes evaporate and get in your nose and it burns like hell.  Any lamps you are using to heat it will rust around the fumes.  Disposing is no fun either...

[neon333]

For etching I prefer to H202+HCl (brick cleaning muriatic acid, and non-creamy hair bleach), since it works about twice as fast and is clear so you can see the progess.  Unfortunately the stuff is EXTREMELY dangerous to use, if you so much as swish the solution around in the (plastic) container, fumes evaporate and get in your nose and it burns like hell.  Any lamps you are using to heat it will rust around the fumes.  Disposing is no fun either...

Wow!  Muriatic acid is some nasty, nasty stuff :shock:  I've used it a few times to get the rust out of old Vespa gas tanks.  I really hate the stuff.  I never would have thought to use it for PCB etching.  GACK!

Your right, disposal is a pain in the arse.  That is potent stuff.

[moeburn]

Wow!  Muriatic acid is some nasty, nasty stuff :shock:  I've used it a few times to get the rust out of old Vespa gas tanks.  I really hate the stuff.  I never would have thought to use it for PCB etching.  GACK!

Your right, disposal is a pain in the arse.  That is potent stuff.

Its worth the trouble if you are careful to use mask, gloves and goggles.  It doesn't stain, because it is clear, but it does dissolve.  The day after I had used it, I found small (half mm sized) holes all over myself, including the tips of my fingers.  

Ok maybe ammonium persulfate is better if you can find it

[nelson]

Wow!  Muriatic acid is some nasty, nasty stuff :shock:  I've used it a few times to get the rust out of old Vespa gas tanks.  I really hate the stuff.  I never would have thought to use it for PCB etching.  GACK!

Your right, disposal is a pain in the arse.  That is potent stuff.

Its worth the trouble if you are careful to use mask, gloves and goggles.  It doesn't stain, because it is clear, but it does dissolve.  The day after I had used it, I found small (half mm sized) holes all over myself, including the tips of my fingers.  

Ok maybe ammonium persulfate is better if you can find it

ever thought about going for a preisthood?

[MR COFFEE]

Another suitable solvent for removing the PnP is lacquer thinner. Very fast.

The raised rim around drilled holes is related to dull bits or using high speed steel instead of carbide bits (brittle though - you've got to use a drill press). Not really a problem either way if you use solvent and scotchbrite to clean the copper after you drill.