My projects are doomed?

[ElectroFreak]

Well after 2 unsuccessful projects that I have been unable to figure out (orange squeezer and MXR noise gate), I finally got all the parts together for the project I really wanted to build, the SinAmp from Tonepad.  2 evenings after work and I finally got it all together, looking quite good.  I pop in the ICs and take it to my amp and guitar to test it out and... -silence-.  Nothing.  About 3 mins later of jacking around with the various switches and knobs (which there are a lot) I realize - Doh!  Negative tip stupid!  I had wired up the power jack with the 9v to the tip, so there's no telling what it was doing to all my components while I had it plugged in sitting there.  The power has been re-wired now but all I get is a high upward turning noise (right when I plug in the power) for a sec or so then it is quiet except for a slight hum.  I'll admit I'm not great at testing components so I have no idea if the ICs are blown or not, should that be the first thing I replace and try again?  So far the only project that works is my Guv'nor that I made on perfboard.  I can't figure out if I'm just having really bad luck or if I'm doomed in creating my projects.

[PCS]

Wow! Try some simpler projects! :shock:  

A nice Bazz Fuss, or a Fuzz Face.

[Toney]

Patience grasshopper. You'll get there...

I just rebuilt a simple project that was driving me nuts. Came down to a faulty pot.

Tripple check every component value.
Get a magnifying glass and go over yr soldering looking for glitches.

These are the most common stuff ups.

If no joy, follow the debugging instructions at the top of the page.

Good luck, all the frustration is totally worth it once you get a few "winners".

[markr04]

For what it's worth, I built 3 MXR noise gates and none of them work. I agree with the other guy... start with some simpler projects.

[petemoore]

Perfin' an Orange Squeezer can be tricky, those Jfets and all...
 Noise Gate, I'd try that on a PCB.
 Look at 'what to do when it doesn't work' near top thread.
 Check the voltages on the OS's opamp, I think there's a link 'opamp biasing' or post them here.
 Get the Jfet pinout from the data sheet of the transistor type used.
 Look at 'nodes' on the OS schematic, count connections and designations, resistor value[s and cap orientations, paying special attention to Jfet D/S/G connections. Compare that to what you can absorb after staring at the circuit board connections from different angles, sorry, that's what I end up doing sometimes.
 It's a compressor, a bit more complex than a booster, ATPoint it might not take some doing.
 If necessary get the DMM out and check for bridges, missed connection.
 Sometimes voltages help, sometimes it's a matter of 'abstracting' the schematic and applying it to the circuit board.
 IIRC it was easy to get 'looped' by the Jfet connections ie, you have to keep your place and follow through from one end to the other, 'counting' the side chain as you go.

[petemoore]

Work on getting a gain stage going.
 That means a nice, useful, simple booster.
 This'll at least increase the odds that all of 'em arent forsaken.
 Note the nodes, measure every resistor prior to installing, follow transistor pinout and apply that to the board/schematic, watch polarized caps orientation.
 If you have a Jfet you could choose from quite a number of boosters to put it in.
 Sparkleboost
 Fetzer Valve
 Stratoblaster
 I've been working on my sloppy second schematic, typed out...

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

Reverse power is fatal to ICs, usually. But everything else is likely to be OK.

[ElectroFreak]

Only the Guv'nor (which worked great) was made on perf, the rest are on pcbs.  That's what's so annoying about it all, I finally get everything together to do a really nice job and none of em work.  On the SinAmp, I cleaned leads and checked every resistor value before I mounted it, then double checked component placement then after soldering I tested the resistance measured on the traces on each resistor to make sure I got good joints.  I don't have anything to measure proper cap value but double checked all placements.   I really had a good feeling on this one so I think it may have worked if I hadn't been a bonehead and reversed the voltage =0  I'll check the ICs and see if they are working according to spec, maybe they got fried.

[ElectroFreak]

Maybe I'm using the wrong IC or something?  I'm grasping now trying to figure out what could be cause all 3 to not work.  I'm using http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=334563 as my TL072's should it be ok?

[petemoore]

Reverse polarity protection is suggested.
 TL072 should be fine in a dual socket ,ie if the -/+ inputs and everything match the schematic..
 Test for short between battery clip + and -, or if using a PS, engage the DC Jack and stereo input jack 'off' trick, then apply power. Take voltage measurements on the IC pins and post them.

[ElectroFreak]

-Removed voltages so wouldn't take up so much room-

[ElectroFreak]

Found the main problem with it.  Let's just say I have learned not to make any mods until I get the original totally working, even if the mod seems incredibly easy.  The unit at least produced sound, but the volume is really messed up.  All other switches and pots seem to be controlling what they are supposed to, but when the volume pot is turned up this horrid background noise, a very loud hum, comes into play.  At full volume it is incredibly loud and I can no longer hear the signal.  With the volume turned almost all the way down I can hear the signal but it is distored beyond what the 'distortion' signal should be.  When more than one string on the guitar is played it muddles the notes up and a chord sounds like garbage.  Perhaps one of the ICs is bad?  When I get some more I'll switch em out but thought for now I'd ask here and see if any of you had any ideas.

[Fp-www.Tonepad.com]

Electrolytic capacitors should be changed after a reverse polarity situation. Also, the transistor.

Fp