Anyone use/try the Eastwood Hotcoat system on Hammonds?

[mojotron]

This is a URL:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=5572&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C458%2C459&KickerID=105&KICKER

I'm thinking for about $300, I could have a complete system for powder coating and silkscreening (I did not include a URL for a silkscreening kit - but there are quite a few known approaches for that, and any old oven would work for this...).

However, I would really like to hear from anyone that might have used this system, it looks really promising to overcome the vexing fragility of enamel/laquer paints for commercial work.

I would add that I am looking at painting a lot of enclosures at a time, if I was just interested in doing just a few at a time I would recommend taking the enclosures to a local body/car-paint shop if I really wanted them powder coated.

[dadude]

This is a URL:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=5572&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C458%2C459&KickerID=105&KICKER

I'm thinking for about $300, I could have a complete system for powder coating and silkscreening (I did not include a URL for a silkscreening kit - but there are quite a few known approaches for that, and any old oven would work for this...).

However, I would really like to hear from anyone that might have used this system, it looks really promising to overcome the vexing fragility of enamel/laquer paints for commercial work.

I would add that I am looking at painting a lot of enclosures at a time, if I was just interested in doing just a few at a time I would recommend taking the enclosures to a local body/car-paint shop if I really wanted them powder coated.

I've looked into it. It seems to be very cool. I thought the cheaper one might do great on boxes.

The cool thing about powder is the reuse of what does not make it on the pedals. Its part of the reason the powder is more expensive than liquid, but you can reuse the leftovers if done right.

To really get the most out of it you need to build a booth. You can get even more out of it with a reclaim system.

You also have to have some sort of kiln oven $$$, as they need to be baked (from what I remember) at about 400 degrees.

Powder is the way to go. It's faster than liquid, more durable, more economical, better on the environment, and on your lungs.

[Fret Wire]

This company is located near me, and is pretty top notch quality wise. I use their plating products. Their starter kit includes a compressor, handy for those who don't have one.
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/powder_kit.html

[mojotron]

This company is located near me, and is pretty top notch quality wise. I use their plating products. Their starter kit includes a compressor, handy for those who don't have one.
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/powder_kit.html

Fret Wire - Wow - that kit looks pretty good too.. With a compressor that's worth thinking about - thanks!

dadude - I can't wait to get this setup, I agree, if I set up a booth and reclaim powder I might get a fairly cheap operation going.

[Fret Wire]

Your welcome. I have no quams about recommending Caswell. Good tech support too. You could probably do some small parts powder coating jobs for hotrodder's and bikers and recoup the investment, plus pay for your own powder colors. Nothing big, just enough side jobs to pay for your materials and equipment.

[markr04]

I have a good bit of experience with coating and have tried these inexpensive guns. I was unimpressed. They will spray powder, but unevenly and waste a good bit of powder (you need a perfect environment to reclaim). But, there is a huge price gap between the bargain kits and the good ones - a good gun alone runs over $1K (although Eastwood has an $800 gun that's really pretty good). In a good environment (booth), you can get okay results with a cheap gun. Either way, it's a very expensive venture and the gun ends up being the least expensive part.

Some tips: Always ground your object. Never touch the tip of the gun - there's 10kV on the cheapies and upwards of 40kV on the pro models. Ground the tip after you're done, there's still quite a bit of electricity in the system even after it's been turned off. Never cure in a gas oven (powder has a low flashpoint). Curing will ruin an oven the first time (for cooking), so cure in a dedicated, electric oven in a well-ventilated space. Store your powder in a low-humidity environment. Wear a mask; the powder is nasty on your lungs.

Good thinking on the silk-screening. Silk-screening is the best way to go if you're powder-coating. Neither labels or adhesives will withstand the 400f+ curing temperatures for clear-coating. I'm lazy. I use a paint gun system and urethane clearcoat because the silk-screening I've done on shirts alone was tedious and imperfect. Will you post links to the silk-screening setups you found?