I need dimensions to create a pcb

[tuato]

Hi all, i`m goin to build my fisrt pcb , and i`ve got a little question for that. What are the ideal dimensions for the PCB? the effect i`ll try to build is the Dod YJM 308, but i need to know the size of the PCB in centimeters please.

Thanks a lot

[mth5044]

It can be whatever you want it to be. You need to know the size of the enclosure, where the pots, switches, jacks, etc (board mount?) and design from there. Ideally you want to make it as small as you can without suffering and stuffing consequences.

[Steve Mavronis]

I have a chart in the members section about all the DOD 250 versions up to theYJM308 including PCB board dimensions listed in inches but you can easily convert inches to cm in google.

[Zapp Brannigan]

Dimensions depend on your enclosure and parts sizes. So it is up to you how big your PCB would be.

P.S.: 1 inch = 25.4 mm = 2.54 cm, by the way, google goes to hell

[Steve Mavronis]

I'm typing this from my smartphone so hope it works. Here my 'updated' Google Docs spreadsheet of my DOD 250 comparison research. The other graphic didn't include the dimensions yet but this one does. Besides the PCB dimensions, the part value listings will help you make your YJM308 clone:

http://sites.google.com/site/snmavronis/neoclassic/741overdrive/research

The YJM308 and Yellow 250 reissue boards are 2.2" x1.8" (5.588cm by 4.572cm) in size. The board for my own gray 250 clone is slightly smaller at 2.0" by 1.7" (5.08cm by 4.318cm) to fit better into a Hammond 1590B enclosure. A PCB that is 2.2" wide would be the maximum but the fit would be pretty tight in a 1590B but doable.

[R.G.]

There's a good beginner's PCB layout question in this.

The **first** thing you do, as the original poster is thinking, is to decide the size and shape of the PCB. What he has not yet realized is that it's the total of the other things the several of you have alluded to: it's the stuff that's NOT the PCB or schematic. I go through this in "PCB Layout for Musical Effects" - you simply must get all of the mechanical considerations satisfied first. So the first step is to measure the enclosure, controls, jacks, switches, and how these all mount together before you can do a decent PCB. A very big question is: will any of the controls, jacks, switches, etc., mount onto the PCB? If yes, that physical mounting has to interact with the enclosure, and their locations are the single biggest consideration in the layout. Get a jack in the wrong place and it won't fit into the box. If you are connecting all these with flexible wires, you have much more freedom, but you still have to make enough measurements that you know all those parts will fit in the box. Otherwise, you'll get it done and then have to go find a bigger box.

[Earthscum]

... Otherwise, you'll get it done and then have to go find a bigger box.

Or figure out how to do the opposite of UNtangling x-mas lights. Basically, my first couple are wiring nightmares, and have way too much wiring taking up space in the enclosure. Lesson learned in my case: bad outboard pad layout can contribute to a LOT of enclosure space use. I pretty much figured out that if you can get your pads as close to the outboard component connecting to it, you can save a TON of space and the bigger board becomes less consequential.

Boss and Ibanez pedals, in my opinion, are good examples of huge boards playing nice with the outboard components on a reasonably sized enclosure... and on the other extreme you have the Fuzz Face... little board, gigantic enclosure.