Blue Box pics/report/perf layout

[KORGULL]

I made a perf layout based on the schematic at //www.tonepad.com. I added in all of the optional (re-issue?) parts, used the highest gain MPSA18 transistors I had, and added a switch to select either one octave down or two. Later I swapped the 4558 chip for a 2068D.
I'm actually really pleased with the performance of this pedal. I didn't expect it to work so well based on some things I've read about it.
It sounds good as long as you give it what it wants that is...
Using my neck position pickup (a humbucker), the tracking is rock solid everywhere above the 5th or 7th fret, but if I try to use the bridge pickup (also a humbucker) forget about it - it won't hold a steady pitch anywhere.

I think the MPSA18's make this thing sound and track much better than it did with 2N3904's in it.

I also found that subbing smaller value caps for the 300pF can really make a  difference (for the worse) in sound/operation. When I tried a ceramic one that was somewhere between 250-280pF some of the lower notes sounded more muffled and inconsistent. A larger value (330-350pF I think it was) mica one was fine though.

I built this one on perf and just finished another one for a friend on a PCB using tonepad's PCB layout. They both sound good.
Thanks FP/Tonepad!

The perfboard layout is posted in the "schematics and layouts" forum if anyone wants it.






*Edited to update picture links*

[soggybag]

Nice job. I like the little robot guy on the box.

[Connoisseur of Distortion]

that is an insanely tight build :shock:

excellent work! your perfboard looks well layed out, and appears to have alot of though put into it. i for one will be checking it out.  

[MartyMart]

That's a great little build  My board is about three times the size !!
Could you explain the "octave switch" wiring, I'd like to try that  ?

...... sorry, found it on the layout !! Duh !

Nice one,
Marty.

[jimbob]

that is an insanely tight build  

I agree- but looks great. Whats the octave switch? Ive recently decided to learn pcb making instead of perfing. I used to only perf but now it takes too much time and leaves too much room for error and debugging.

[dominatrix_volleyball]

I'm loving the robot.  :lol:

[bwanasonic]

Very nice! If you haven't already, try the Blue Box with a 15" speaker. You can have a lot of fun with a multi-amp setup, giving the Blue Box it's own 15".

Kerry M

[petemoore]

that is an insanely tight build
  Nice Job Nice Report
 I only saw a 'few' pads not used ...

[KORGULL]

I like that little robot too. I knew I wanted a robot on there but I'm not so good at drawing and can't scan anything into my computer anyway, so I found that guy by searching Google images with the terms "cartoon robot" and altered it a bit in the computer so it would turn out better when
printed.

bwanasonic wrote:

If you haven't already, try the Blue Box with a 15" speaker. You can have a lot of fun with a multi-amp setup, giving the Blue Box it's own 15".

Sounds like a good idea - I will try that. I was already planning to see how it sounds with a bass guitar tonight. Afterwards I'll mess around with my guitar :arrow: Blue box :arrow: bass amp w/15" spkr.

jimbob wrote:

Whats the octave switch?

You're basically just taking the side of R11 that goes to pin 1 of the CD4013 and re-routing it to the middle lug (common) of a SPDT switch, then connect a wire to each of the outer switch lugs and run one to CD4013 pin 1 and one to CD4013 pin 13 (or pin 3 -since they are connected)

Ive recently decided to learn pcb making instead of perfing. I used to only perf but now it takes too much time and leaves too much room for error and debugging.

You can easily add this mod to a PCB'ed Blue Box too:
1)Pull R11 where it connects to CD4013 pin 1.
2)Solder a wire to the R11 lead you just pulled and run that wire to SPDT common.
3)Run a wire from an outside SPDT lug to the pad where the R11 lead was taken from.
4)Drill a hole in the board between the R11 and C12 pads, as close to the end of the 4013 socket as you can. Then insert a wire in the hole and solder it to the trace that connects pin3 and 13 of the 4013. and run the other end of the wire to the other outer lug of the SPDT switch.  
Done.

[bwanasonic]

If I'm not mistaken, Frank Zappa used to tote around an 18" speaker, reserved just for the moments where he kicked in the Blue Box. I never owned a BB, but I worked in a music store in the early-to-mid 70's, so I spent as much *quality* time as I could, holed up in the amp room with things like the Blue Box, Big Green MXR Analog Delay, a (Maestro?) Ring Mod, Phase 100, etc.

Kerry M

[tone_crafter]

Hey I know this is a stupid question but how do you print the text and pics out and stick em on the box. Is it special paper or a sticker or what. At the moment im just using a label maker. It looks crappy and its only one font and colour and I can't do pics.

[KORGULL]

I guess there are alot of computer programs available that let you combine text and pictures. I found one for only US$1.99 a few years ago called Photosuite3. I also use MS paint - sometimes I need to use both to get certain things accomplished easily.
Once your design is complete you can print it out on waterslide decal stock, iron-on transfers, or sticker paper etc...
Apply it to your enclosure and clear-coat.
There's lots of more detailed info on this around on the forum if you search for it.

[Paul Marossy]

Nice work. I like the graphics, too.  

[mgmusic]

I made a perf layout based on the schematic at www.tonepad.com. I added in all of the optional (re-issue?) parts, used the highest gain MPSA18 transistors I had, and added a switch to select either one octave down or two. Later I swapped the 4558 chip for a 2068D.
I'm actually really pleased with the performance of this pedal. I didn't expect it to work so well based on some things I've read about it.
It sounds good as long as you give it what it wants that is...
Using my neck position pickup (a humbucker), the tracking is rock solid everywhere above the 5th or 7th fret, but if I try to use the bridge pickup (also a humbucker) forget about it - it won't hold a steady pitch anywhere.

I think the MPSA18's make this thing sound and track much better than it did with 2N3904's in it.

I also found that subbing smaller value caps for the 300pF can really make a  difference (for the worse) in sound/operation. When I tried a ceramic one that was somewhere between 250-280pF some of the lower notes sounded more muffled and inconsistent. A larger value (330-350pF I think it was) mica one was fine though.

I built this one on perf and just finished another one for a friend on a PCB using tonepad's PCB layout. They both sound good.
Thanks FP/Tonepad!

The perfboard layout is posted in the "schematics and layouts" forum if anyone wants it.






*Edited to update picture links*

hello!

congratulations on your pedal!!

I ´m having problems with mine, maybe you can help me!

tracking - is it common to have bad tracking up til the 5 fret? if not, can you help me to fix that?

thanks!!!!

marcelo

[KORGULL]

Yes, it is common.
Best advice I can give is to use the neck position pickup (if your guitar has one) and try to play on the higher frets as much as possible.
Turning the guitar's tone control down might help also.

[mgmusic]

Yes, it is common.
Best advice I can give is to use the neck position pickup (if your guitar has one) and try to play on the higher frets as much as possible.
Turning the guitar's tone control down might help also.

thanks man!!

I will buy MPSA18 , maybe will track better than a 5088 or other!

[Fp-www.Tonepad.com]

nice.