parts for a project...

Started by choklitlove, December 19, 2005, 07:49:04 PM

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choklitlove

i'd like to attempt a project from tonepad.com.  it's the big muff pi and it's here- http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=3.
can someone help me choose the parts?  there is a list, but if you go to mouser, there are several different types of each.  being that i'm a beginner, maybe someone could provide some catalog #s for mouser?  thanks in advance!
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MartyB

Hi Choklitlove,

    Welcome to the forum.  For resistors, you're looking for 1/4 watt types.  Metal film are best, but rarely will anything other than carbon film resistors be necessary.  For the 1uF electrolytic caps you want radial caps rated at 10 volts or higher (better yet 16v).  Try to get mylar film caps for the smaller cap values.  If the Mouser part number has 'SM' in it avoid that - it means 'surface mount' and would require a different layout.  BTW, if this is your first foray into DIY, I'd recommend a less ambitious first build, like a Fuzz Face or Rangemaster.  You're less likely to end up discouraged by the final result.   Also consider buying your first parts from Steve Daniels at Small Bear Electronics.  He'll stock everything you need at a fair price.  His part inventory is specifically geared toward pedal building, i.e. less likely you end up with parts you can't use.  Are you making your PCB or purchasing it?

MartyB

choklitlove

thanks, i'll look into that further.  i'll return soon with a list of parts, and we'll see if i understand you correctly.  i was probably just going to buy the pcb, it's only $14, and that saves me a lot of work that i'm not really interested in doing.  i have enough confidence in myself that i think i can make it work.  thanks for the reply!
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Connoisseur of Distortion

if you purchase the PCB, i imagine that it becomes a much more realistic first build.

damn, i hate etching.

in any case, you might want to go for the metal film resistors on the BMP, as it has enough gain that sloppy work might oscillate. your biggest concern will actually be wiring it up, as all the attachments are the really confusing parts.

best of luck to you! tell us how it sounds!  :)

Steben

Yup, once you have the PCB, it gets a lot easier. especially the solder imperfections and board errors are reduced to almost zero.
Looking at the allround usefulness of the project I guess the BMP is a nice fellow.
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choklitlove

okay, brace yourselves.  stupid-newb question probably:  on the pdf file for the project, all of the caps are values in 'uf's or 'pf's.  at smallbear, there's only 'mf's or 'pf's.  is the 'uf' looking symbol the same as 'mf'?
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Steben

#6
uF = µF = microFarad = 1000nF = 1 000 000pF

mF (= milli-Farad=1000uF) is a strange unpractical thing. I've only held a couple of times 1000uF electrolytics in my hand for fun (they looked like 40mm grenades).

mF>uF>nF>pF (each with a x1000 ratio)
milliFarad, microFarad, nanoFarad, picoFarad

I'm really hooked to my "european" biased symbols. "2n2" for example (= 2,2 nF).
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choklitlove

Quote from: Steben on December 20, 2005, 04:42:49 AM
uF = µF = microFarad = 1000nF = 1 000 000pF

mF (= milli-Farad=1000uF) is a strange unpractical thing. I've only held a couple of times 1000uF electrolytics in my hand for fun (they looked like 40mm grenades).

mF>uF>nF>pF (each with a x1000 ratio)
so that means 1000uf=1mf?
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Steben

Quoteso that means 1000uf=1mf?

Normally yes. But I think Steve Daniels means uF with mF, since he jumps from pF to mF. I'm quite sure. I guess he ment to be clear to all but misses sometimes.
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choklitlove

Quote from: Steben on December 20, 2005, 04:48:45 AM
Quoteso that means 1000uf=1mf?

Normally yes. But I think Steve Daniels means uF with mF, since he jumps from pF to mF. I'm quite sure. I guess he ment to be clear to all but misses sometimes.
that's what it seems like, because in radial elecrolytics, he only offers 1mf-1000mf.
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choklitlove

okay, one more thing.  for the lower caps, i was looking at the poly films.  i found all the values except .004 mf(uf).  should i just get the .0039?
the page is here: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=162
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Steben

Yeah, of course.  ;)
There is always tolerance. A "0.039" cap can have a real value of 0.038 or 0.040. It depends on the circuit whether it's important or not. As 4.7kohms resistor is used often for 5k.
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choklitlove

awesome.  i think that's all i need concerning the parts.  thanks!
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