What's a good wattage to use while working on effects?

Started by skiraly017, February 04, 2006, 03:37:59 PM

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skiraly017

I'm using the Rat Shack 25/40 watt iron on the 25 watt setting. Too high or just right? I've seen 15 watt irons and was wondering if I'd be better off with one of those. Thanks for the help.
"Why do things that happen to stupid people keep happening to me?" - Homer Simpson

twabelljr

Your iron should work just fine as long as the tip is clean and tinned. Have you read R.G.'s article "How to solder" here..http://www.geofex.com/ ?
Good luck, don't give up!
Shine On !!!

petemoore

  Should be fine, until the tip dies after a few circuits worth of work.
 Replacable tips are available, I just worked 'em down to a nub, my 'new' [really old] iron has lifetime free tips made from thick solid core copper.
 As long as the metals get hot, especially the ones you're wanting hot enough to 'take' solder, the surfaces 'farthest away from where the tip is contacting the joint...you should be fine...if you start seeing pads lift, and smell alot of the different than solder smell of phelonic, you may want to decrease application time or iron temp.
 Also you have a way to sort of selectively cool part of the joint while heating it with the tip, using nice cool solder...plus only adding a little dab at a time you can see 'where' the joint is hot enough to 'take', and end up with a physically strong enough joint by adding just the right amount, instead of huge globs on one side where it stayed 'just hot enough' to melt what was getting continually added as fast as it'd melt...see that prevents the heat from being able to make it to the other side of teh joint.
 Start with clean tip, ad little dab 'l solder, 'pinch' the freshly melted/heated solder between the iron and tip, add another little dab, 1 second, dab, ['take' should be making it's way across the joint nicely by now, perhaps now between the wires is getting hot enough...] hold the solder on the heated wires/pad now, it might take a second or two for the heat to transfer, as soon as it does, pull it back again, continue, the pad should be taking solder by now, as soon as the pad starts taking solder, add enough to make just a clean strong enough joint, solder completely taking to the pad surface all around. The last thing I like to do is not add heat, not solder for the last half second or so.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

R.G.

R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.