Use of the switch actuators - with pics

[bioroids]

Hi, I finally was able to take some pics of the system I've been using last year.







You have to use microswitch that has a taller button (5mm from the bottom of the switch) instead of the one in the pic for a proper mounting of the spring. The board is a little 2 transistor flip-flop and a led driver.


You have to set the heigth so the last millimiter of travel of the actuator actuates on the microswitch. This way the spring that is inside of the actuator takes all the pressure.



The oldest pedal I have with this system is six months old and still working.
Anyhow I switched to Carlings because this was too much of a complication and I rather use True bypass than the electronic switching.

Luck

Miguel

[donald stringer]

Could you please post a schematic on the circuit you are using with the actuator. Thanks  troublerat

[jrc4558]

Great job! I was researching the subject of electronic switching for some time, but never got around to actually trying it. Your progress is an inspiration!

[chokeyou]

mechanically, thats exactly how line 6 does it with their *M-4 series pedals. I've got a ton of those switches too, does it come out cheaper to just buy a 3pdt or to rig up that circuit?

[bioroids]

mechanically, thats exactly how line 6 does it with their *M-4 series pedals. I've got a ton of those switches too, does it come out cheaper to just buy a 3pdt or to rig up that circuit?

Cool.

For me it is better to use the carling (or other mechanichal) switch, it's a lot easier to set up and is not that expensive if you buy them at large quantities. Anyway I think is cheaper to use the electronic switch with the actuator.

Finally I don't really know how much time to expect between failures on this setup, but if mounted just right and with a good quality microswitch I think it may last several years. On the other hand, its easy to fix, as you only need to replace the micro. Probably with a microswitch like the ones on tubescreamers or similar (bigger than the tact switches I used) you get better results.

I know the sansamp (at least one I fixed) uses a similar system.

I can post the flip flop board and schem in a few days.

Luck!

Miguel

[E-Boy]

bioroids, do these actuators give you that tactile click?

[Dave_B]

Thanks for posting the pics.  I've got a couple of actuators on order from Steve just to see what I'd be getting into.  The recent thread about Carling switches (especially Z-Vex's grocery bag of dead ones) is really making me consider your approach.  You might want to read that one. 

[bioroids]

Hi!

The actuators dont have any feel really, so you need to check the led status to see if the effect was engaged or not - that's a drawback for some players.

I read that thread for sure, that's why this time I ordered the blue 3PDTs! I had noticed the Carlings being somewhat "fluky". If you order a lot from Small Bear the blue ones are actually cheaper than the Carlings and you dont have to use the millenium bypass for the led

Luck

Miguel

[Mark Hammer]

bioroids, do these actuators give you that tactile click?

They don't have that "no, no, no, no, OKAY!" click that standard stompswitches do.  On the other hand, the amount of travel the actuator undergoes is easily noticeable and provides far more tactile feedback than the plastic pad my old MXR Flanger uses to depress the same type of PC-mount switch.  Some people may need to have a more positive click ("CLUNK!!") than others do, or at least a status LED to verify.  Myself, I haven't used them enough, and certainly not in a gig situation, to be able to tell you whether that modicum of tactile feeback is enough.