New bypass wiring method?

Started by tennisdude, February 19, 2006, 02:46:51 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

tennisdude

Hey guys,

Personally, I never use batteries in stomp boxes because, although they are less noisy to my ears, its a total pain to have to unplug the input jack from each stomp box with a battery inside it, and the worst feeling in the world is when you realize that you've left one plugged in and drained the battery out. Well, I think I may have found a solution. I'm sure tons of people have already figured this out, but here she is:



I'm going to try this out on my wah as soon as I can, and see if it does the trick (and I dont see why it shouldnt).
enjoy!
John

tennisdude

crap. already found a mistake  ;D

battery should connect to pin 9, not pin 3

woops  :o

d95err

Wouldn't there be a loud click if you switch the supply voltage on/off when you switch the effect?

formerMember1

if you mean using the switch to turn off the battery and effect?  THen that means everytime you step on the pedal to turn it on, the effect will not work until the capacitors get charged,... probably not long, but long enough to make it not worth it,..

don't know though,....

The Tone God

Switching your power supply on and off while bypassed is not a good idea. The idea of keeping the effect powered during bypassed cycles is that when you go to hit the effect on its ready to go. If you switch the power then you have to wait till it powers up and stabilizes which probably means at the least a pop and perhaps a delay in response.

There is a reason why things are done they way they are. If you are worried about not unplugging the effect or don't have th option put a power switch in on the side.

Andrew

nero1985

i tried that before and there is a very loud pop and it kinda fades in when you turn it on like the tone god said its better to leave it on

H S

How about this:  Instead of shutting off the power to the effect, the switch puts a current limiting resistor in series with the power supply to the effect.  The resistor should be after the supply cap so the cap stays charged, and after the Vref divider so Vref doesn't wobble when the power comes on.  (Vref should be set up to draw low current.)

tennisdude

great suggestions all! I knew that it was too good to be true :) good suggestion HS, i may have to try that.

John

Paul Marossy

I did exactly what you propose for my A/B box. My LED power supply is completely isolated from circuit ground, so pops can't happen with it. When I want to de-power it, I just step on the switch.  :icon_cool:

Alex C

Hey, I "discovered" this idea a while ago, and was really excited about my groundbreaking theory. 
About halfway down in this thread.

It's good that you're thinking, though.

-Alex

tennisdude

Quote from: Alex C on February 21, 2006, 06:20:26 PM
Hey, I "discovered" this idea a while ago, and was really excited about my groundbreaking theory. 
About halfway down in this thread.

It's good that you're thinking, though.

-Alex

thanks man  :icon_cool:

Quote from: Paul Marossy on February 21, 2006, 03:53:09 PM
I did exactly what you propose for my A/B box. My LED power supply is completely isolated from circuit ground, so pops can't happen with it. When I want to de-power it, I just step on the switch.  :icon_cool:

hmm interesting