the Best for the TS-808 mods overdrive/booster, help.

[ANDYEFFECT]

First I read almost all topics here in this site on ts-808 and I did look. 
 
I want a Ts-808, cleaner sound, I don't want more distortion, I want to maintain and when pot drive 0 less distortion, please help me. 
 
1) 0.1/2k4 instead of 0.047/4k7 - more bass 

2) 22k instead of 51k - as it controls drive 0 - less distortion. 

3) inserts to 500K in series with the feedback loop diodes - more headroom (see schematic)
http://www.kilback.net/homebrewtweaks/pedals/sk_skildrive_schem.gif

4) transistor for lower noise - 2n3904, 2n5088 or 2n5089? 

5) Ci for lower noise - TL072, NE5532, JRC4558D, LM833, LM1458   

6) diode Clipping - (2 - 1n914), (3 - 1n914) or (2 - 1n914 and 1 - 1n34a) 

7) 1uF/50V NP electrolytic and 0.22uF tantalum will change for 1uF/50V polyester and 0.22uF film   

Is there something more than I can do to get better?
 
Do I want him to be with the option of a very clean booster when I to need, will it be these modifications?

I thank a lot all.
(Excuse my bad translator.)

[twabelljr]

     I did some calculations when modding my TS-9 to figure min./max. gain and frequency roll-off using articles and calculators from GEOFEX and AMZ. The components affected are the 4k7/0.047 RC filter and the 51k drive resistor.

RC filter value       Drive Resistor       Min. Gain       Max. Gain       Freq. Roll-off

  4k7/0.047                 51k                    12                 107                 720Hz          (stock values)
  4k7/0.1                     22k                    6                   112                 338Hz
  2k4/0.1                     22k                    10                 218                 663Hz
  3k3/0.1                     22k                    7                   159                 482Hz

Notice the 2k4/0.1 combination you mention for more bass does not increase bass much but raises max. gain quite a bit. The 22k drive resistor does help clean the pedal up a noticable amount. I chose the 3k3/0.1, 22k combination after some testing because the gain range is wider (too much did not sound very good to me), and the frequency roll-off allows more bass but is not muddy.

For diodes I liked a 1n914 and a 1n4001 after trying many combinations. Germaniums lower the output too much. You would need at least 2 in each direction.

Many threads report poor results using a 2n3904 transitor for input/output buffer. I used MPSA 18 with good results. I recommend 2n5088 or MPSA 18.

I did not try many IC's. I have a RC4558 in mine, but alot of people like the NE5532 and TL072.

Change to the film caps you mentioned, and that's about all I  have experience with. Have fun!

Here's the RC filter calculator:  http://www.muzique.com/schem/filter.htm
Gain calculation formula:  http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/TStech/tsxtech.htm

[ANDYEFFECT]

     I did some calculations when modding my TS-9 to figure min./max. gain and frequency roll-off using articles and calculators from GEOFEX and AMZ. The components affected are the 4k7/0.047 RC filter and the 51k drive resistor.

RC filter value       Drive Resistor       Min. Gain       Max. Gain       Freq. Roll-off

  4k7/0.047                 51k                    12                 107                 720Hz          (stock values)
  4k7/0.1                     22k                    6                   112                 338Hz
  2k4/0.1                     22k                    10                 218                 663Hz
  3k3/0.1                     22k                    7                   159                 482Hz

Notice the 2k4/0.1 combination you mention for more bass does not increase bass much but raises max. gain quite a bit. The 22k drive resistor does help clean the pedal up a noticable amount. I chose the 3k3/0.1, 22k combination after some testing because the gain range is wider (too much did not sound very good to me), and the frequency roll-off allows more bass but is not muddy.

For diodes I liked a 1n914 and a 1n4001 after trying many combinations. Germaniums lower the output too much. You would need at least 2 in each direction.

Many threads report poor results using a 2n3904 transitor for input/output buffer. I used MPSA 18 with good results. I recommend 2n5088 or MPSA 18.

I did not try many IC's. I have a RC4558 in mine, but alot of people like the NE5532 and TL072.

Change to the film caps you mentioned, and that's about all I  have experience with. Have fun!

Here's the RC filter calculator:  http://www.muzique.com/schem/filter.htm
Gain calculation formula:  http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/TStech/tsxtech.htm

I thank a lot, this help to many.

[sta63bmx]

On my TS build, I went from 4k7/0.047uF to a 2k2/0.047uF or a 1k/0.047uF on that opamp input.  More high end, more bite, a really nasty Joe Walsh kind of treble from hell.  Think "Funk #48" or "Funk #49" intros.  I liked that a lot.  The 1k is almost too much high end.  It isn't brittle, just piercing.  That extra high end also made the guitar sound more open and alive, brought out the pinch harmonics a lot easier, and playing in front of an amp at decent volume, TONS of musical feedback.  The darker you make it, the more it'll choke that.

I have a second footswitch that switches a 1M (? can't remember, only been a week!!!) resistor in series with the drive pot and simultaneously switches a 1M trimpot between the "cold" lug on the level pot and AC ground for a volume boost.  I have the level trimpot about halfway and I get an ok volume boost and more drive when I kick it on.  I am going to play it for real tonight and try to fine tune that.  It also lights a second "boost" led whose ground side is connected to the original LED ground so they're only on when the pedal is engaged.

Doof Warning

I used to have a single 4k7 current limiting resistor before the original LED and then I tied the high side of both LEDs together.  When I switched on the boost, the regular LED would go dark.  I added a second current limiting resistor so they EACH had one coming from 9 VDC and now they both light.  My bad.

[twabelljr]

I went from 4k7/0.047uF to a 2k2/0.047uF or a 1k/0.047uF on that opamp input

I have a second footswitch that switches a 1M (? can't remember, only been a week!!!) resistor in series with the drive pot

Wow! The 1k/.047 combo gives a corner freq. of 3388Hz and with the 1meg. switched in series with the drive pot your max gain number is 1552! That must sound like one continuous harmonic. Brings a new meaning to SCREAMER. Peace, TWA

[bwanasonic]

I want a Ts-808, cleaner sound, I don't want more distortion, I want to maintain and when pot drive 0 less distortion, please help me. 

As long time TS user (20+ years), my advice is to get a Nobels ODR1. I haven't yet tried to adapt the topology of the ODR1 to a DIY circuit, but the schematic is available at the Nobels site. You might get some ideas that you can adapt.

Kerry M

[sta63bmx]

It's a little unruly with everything on.   The 2k2 resistor is a little more my speed than the 4k7.  I'm still trying to dial in the more drive/level mods.  I got tired of having decade resistors hooked up to the circuit so I just soldered in a fixed resistor.  I'll try it tonight and then probably make some changes.  I'm supposed to be building this for another guy and I haven't made all my part picks yet.  I also tried different rolloff caps in with the diodes.  Anything above about 150pF started to sound "moopy" and choked the guitar.  My ears are bad, so I probably like way more high end than any person should really have. 

[Khas Evets]

If you're looking to have a dual purpose overdrive/booster, I would go with switching the diodes. This will allow you to turn up the gain and still have it clean. Trying to set a lower gain with the 51k resistor will allow it to clean up further (with the diodes in the circuit), but you will loose volume.

[vondran]

I found switching out the diodes completely gives me the best sound.  I installed a three position switch with the middle position having no diodes in the circuit.  Then one of the other positions I had three germaniums in series in one direction and only one germanium in the other direction - this was the next best sound.  Then the third position had two series germaniums in one direction with only one in the other direction - this gave another good sound.  Note that even with the diodes switched out there is still some clipping/distortion for gain turned above 4 or 5 knob setting.  This is simply the gain from the first OpAmp stage overdriving the second OpAmp stage.  But I found I like it better then the diode clipping.

I also found that I prefer the LM833 over the JRC4558.  The LM833 was cleaner, warmer, and had more clarity.

[ANDYEFFECT]

I found switching out the diodes completely gives me the best sound.  I installed a three position switch with the middle position having no diodes in the circuit.  Then one of the other positions I had three germaniums in series in one direction and only one germanium in the other direction - this was the next best sound.  Then the third position had two series germaniums in one direction with only one in the other direction - this gave another good sound.  Note that even with the diodes switched out there is still some clipping/distortion for gain turned above 4 or 5 knob setting.  This is simply the gain from the first OpAmp stage overdriving the second OpAmp stage.  But I found I like it better then the diode clipping.

I also found that I prefer the LM833 over the JRC4558.  The LM833 was cleaner, warmer, and had more clarity.

yes, I can make some tests with didos of GE, more I do feel lack of some clarity, as in the bluesbreaker of the marshall.

i tried "two series germaniums in one direction with only one in the other direction"

[AL]

As long time TS user (20+ years), my advice is to get a Nobels ODR1.

I'll second that. The Nobels ODR-1 is one beautiful sounding pedal - much "cleaner" than a TS pedal. And, like bwanasonic said, the schematics are free at the Nobels site.

AL