How to True Bypass some of the mini Dano pedals...

[wampcat1]

I ran into this thread on another forum...a ton of great info in here:
http://thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=130262


Among them was how to True bypass some of the Dano's. I thought I'd post it here in case anyone goes searching for it:

The french toast (a killing pedal BTW) can be kept on all the time by jumpering pins 9, 10 and 11 of the 4053 chip to V+ - pretty easy!

The chili dog octave- Jumper pin 2 of the 4013 chip nearer the 4053 (there are 2 4013's on the board) to V+. The 4013 on this board is real small, so you have to be pretty careful.

And the corned beef reverb, one of the worst of the bunch IMO, is super easy to just jumper the DPDT switch contacts together- I think this might work for the tuna melt as well, but for some reason I thought it would be better to do it the way I posted above.

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Bypassing the tuna melt trem:
The best way I've found to do this is to cut the pcb trace that connects the 4013 IC to pins 9, 10, and 11 on the 4053. Then connect pins 9, 10 and 11 to V+ (positive power) and the tune melt is permanently on.

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Take care,
Brian

[Ben N]

That is very cool stuff.  I would definitely think about putting a French Toast on my board if I trusted it, and the Fish-n-Chips beats the GE-7 for noise and performance hands down.  BTW, Clay had posted pics of this here a little while back and challenged forumites to figure out what it was (we did), but he has since kind of soured on this forum for whatever reason.  I don't think he posted the bypassing directions here, but not sure.

Ben

[Mark Hammer]

Clay always comes up with clever stuff.

The only thing I don't like about it is the fixed nature of the order.  That's not a criticism of what Clay did, but more of a different approach to using pedals.  There are some things one will always want in a particular position (e.g., compressors behave best if placed right up front in the sequence), but beyond that, generally everything is fair game to be placed anywhere.  As much of a pain in the arse as patch cords are, at least you can unplug them and move things around.

What I'd like to see from members here are their attempts to include a slim-'n-trim "repatching" system on their pedal boards.  For instance, the old MXR Omni and the early Ibanez multi-FX like the UE-300 and 400, included a means of repositioning which effect went where.

The simplest method woud seem to be using the 2-pole/6-position rotary switches you can buy at Radio Shack and many other places.  The commons of each switch becomes a "station" that can be selected or deselected via a stompswitch.  Rotate the switch and each set of contacts moves from the input/output of one pedal/circuit to the input/output of another.  There is the need for the user to keep track of things so that you don't accidentally have the same pedal selected at more than one station, but other than that, it can work fine. 

But what if I don't have 6 pedals to switch between, you ask?  Simple, one or more of the positions can be a simple straight feedthrough until you acquire those extra pedals, or it could even be a pair of send/receive jacks for something that doesn't fit neatly on the grouped together pedal assembly, like a wah.

[Ben N]

Clay worked within his own preset parameters to achieve what he wanted, and I think he succeeded fantastically.  (Although no doubt he was dissatisfied the minute he finished  )  I like the idea of a bank of fuzzes, for example, but I would do the switching a little bit differently, since I never use more than one fuzz at the same time: instead of a 3pdt for each, wired in series, I would use a CMOS one-on-all-others-off bypass switch, with separate momentaries for each fuzz and bypass.  That shortens the overall signal path, plus you never have to hit more than one stomper, even to switch between different fuzzes.

I also think his decision to use the original, board mounted trim-as-panel-pots reduces some of the possible reliability gains from the rehouse.  I would want to save the circuitry, while getting away from anything mechanical from the originals.  But that is just me.

But anyway, it is a way cool project, and that rehousing/bypass info will come in very handy.

Ben

[dano12]

I also wish someone would come up with a noob-friendly simple design for switching effects order for multiple effects in a single box. There is a ton of good articles and ideas for using CMOS, rotary switches, etc. but most of it is still way beyond my noob skills

For my FuzzLab (five fuzzes in one box) I left everything true-bypass and put a set of five in/out jacks on the back:



Poor man's solution, because I have to use patch cables, but it is pretty versatile.

[Stompin Tom]

Hey dano12, what's the other side of your fuzzlab look like? more pics, please!

[donald stringer]

Hey dano 12 that is some qaulity looking work there. You must have a small fortune tied up in knobs. It is this exact subject of pedal switching without dpdt or 3pdt and multieffects in a box that has been the topic of great interest to me. I just about have my project done. After that I am moving on with cmos switching. I am planning a multieffects and switching schem in one box[but no dpdt or 3 pdt]