2 hour, 2$, 2 Pc., Folding Pedalboard

[petemoore]

  Just finished a 'utilitarian's' pedalboard. It took a little thinking, but I got it right this time, it was easy and holds Wah, RACO, and my wood boxes with metal bottoms.
  I started with:
1/4'' x 3.5'' x 18'' piece of oak, 'Lowes' oak.
  [This piece secures the Wah, Phase90 and Mosboost/Dist+].
Another piece the same but 12'' long [secures Green Ringer, FF, EQ].
  A strip of metal
  Screws
  Drill Bits [I used two drills because they're there]
  Seat Belt Material
  Tin Snips
  Zipties [the one part I'm not thrilled about]
  I shaped the metal strap not too wide to fit under the Wah treadle behind the pinion gear to pin the wah, the two rubber feet under the toe keep the strap from interfering with the pinion because the hang over the 1/4'' board about 1/4''. I had to drill/self tap screw into the wah to prevent the case from moving foreward. Mounting a wah has always been problematic because the jacks, feet, pinion, treadle all have to be considered, this was easy.
  The metal box mounts entailed 2 screws each through their bottoms, into the wood. This was easy because they're DIY and large enough to go past the oak board enough to access the bottom to box mount screws for maintainence.
  I used machine screws from salvage, they are fine thread, exactly the right length to not protrude the bottom of the oak board. 
  The RACO's...required a 1'' hole to be drilled to access the right-bottom plate screw, [looking down from the top], the left-top plate screw is over the edge of the board, this puts the stompswitch over the board with 'good footing', so the board doesn't tip while stomping. I used a 'flatbottom' 1'' bit to cut the surfaces of both sides of the board, aligning the two cuts by drilling a teeny pilot hole first, this prevents all 'grain-blowout' as drill bit exits by cleanly cutting the relatively weak grain at the surfaces of the wood.
  The EQ I got lazy and just ziptied it, facing toward the end of the board...this way the cables I have will work, plenty of room to activate the switch.
  The two boards will get 'hinged' by fastening seat belt material to an end of each board, this way I can fold it, and place it into my [vacuumed out] soft suitcase.
  Considering the amount of time I've spent in dark places sorting out inputs/outputs/...and re-re-sorting cable lengths, then debugging...this pedalboard is going to be a real time saver. I started bringing a heavy base 35w quartz gooseneck lamp with the other gear.
 
 

[blanik]

got pics?

[choklitlove]

here's mine:


it's usually got an outlet strip velcro'd in the back section.  nothing special.

[syndromet]

Mine....

[RaceDriver205]

What reverbs that chok?

[choklitlove]

electro-harmonix holy grail.

i love it.  richer spring than any amp i've played.  hall setting too, which is really nice on vocals.

[trevize]

well the spring is not THAT spring. if you ever played a twin reverb you would not say that.  :icon_mrgreen
but the HALL mode is great!

[petemoore]

  I'm no good at sorting PICs. I have thousands of them in this puter, and would have to go through them after loading PICs to find them again in the 'haystack', while browsing from Photobucket, if I'm still having space there for PIX.
  I think I'm missing something in the process that makes it easy to find the PIC I'm looking for.
  I just wanted to share my thinking on placement of the RACO's and Wah...I've made boards that showed 'mistakes' before, ones that were heavy/bulky, didn't really mount the wah or RACO's 'right' for EZ box innard access, non-tippy stomping on...etc.
  This went real easy, is light, compact, will be easy very to use, does the trick, fits in the bag, so meets all *my criterion.