Labelling knobs etc.

Started by zeerust2000, October 31, 2006, 07:18:07 PM

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zeerust2000

I've just built an effect in a biege-coloured plastic box and was wondering how to label the jacks and knobs so that it looks good (that is, as opposed to just writing on the box with a marker).  What kind of techniques have others found to be workable?  Thanks in advance.....

Izzy

This is what I do:

Design in Photoshop
Print in colored chart paper
Laminate the paper
Tape it
;D


Pushtone

Here are some keywords to search for.

Waterslide decals
T-shirt transfer
Rub-on transfer lettinging (letrasett)
Vinyl stickers
Window Decals
Laminated papers

I'm like Izzy. I print a full face decal on plain office paper and stick it down with a thin layer of clear, position it carefully, then 5 coats of clear on top.

The wholly Grail of lettering is white letters on your dark painted box. Rub-on transfer letters comes the closest.
If you figure white lettering out let us know, eh?
It's time to buy a gun. That's what I've been thinking.
Maybe I can afford one, if I do a little less drinking. - Fred Eaglesmith

RollingElbow

Why not glue the laminated chart paper and then clear coat for good measure no? I'm currently in the same spot, thinking of nice finishes for some pedals.

markm

I managed to find a Testor's Decal kit in the hobby section of Walmart.
It works quite well actually.......


RollingElbow

I'll have to see if i can find that.. those graphics came out really well. Lets hope walmart carries that in every store!

rogerinIowa

I have tried about every labeling technique I have read about on this forum.For painted or powder coated enclosures  I have the best of luck using self adhesive clear full-sheet labels. I like the Avery brand #8665 ( bought from Staples or Office Depot, etc) designed for ink-jet printers. I have found that I can get the best results if I run the sheets thru the laser printer at my office. I set the printer to a higher ink setting to produce a darker black result. Once the labels are dry I dust then with several very light coats of clear lacquer while they are still attached to the paper backing. I then carefully peel and stick them to the painted p[edal enclosure, sticking down one side edge first and carefully rubbing/burnishing the label as I stick it down. You can use a piece of waxed paper to burnish with since it will not stick and should not scratch the label. If you end up with any tiny air bubble carefully pop them with a pin and burnish the bubbled area with the wax paper again to ensure good adhesion. I then clear coat the entire pedal case with several coats of lacquer, being sure to build up 3-4 coats before I "knock down" any bumps in the finish, clean the surface and apply the final few clear coats.

The labeling looks really good (IMHO) and seems to blend in pretty well, especially so because  the light coats of lac applied to the label before peeling it off the backing paper seem to help the whole surface sort of "melt together", if that makes any sense. Bad news is that the clear label stock is expensive, $25.00-30.00 for a 25 sheet package. To combat expense I plan several labels on one sheet, sort of how you would get the most out of PNP blue if you are into that.

Anyhow, that's how I do it....works for me. Lately I have been etching everything and not even using painted cases, I blame Markm for that kick-ass etching tutorial!!!



Rogeriniowa
friends dont let friends use stock pedals.

markm

Quote from: rogerinIowa on November 01, 2006, 03:54:32 PM
Anyhow, that's how I do it....works for me. Lately I have been etching everything and not even using painted cases, I blame Markm for that kick-ass etching tutorial!!!

....... >:( me too !!  :icon_lol:

Other than Black, I've barely touched a can of spraypaint in at least 6 months!!