Discovered a new PCB transfer paper, I think

Started by thumposaurus, August 11, 2004, 06:21:46 PM

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tjcombs

Pedals Built - MXR Dist + / WY Harmonics Booster preamp / Rebote 2.5 / Ruby / Rangemaster
Next Project - Some sort of tube amp or mic preamp maybe?????
www.myspace.com/glorynights

thumposaurus

Anything in particular you'd like to know?  I've been using this method for awhile now and haven't had any problems with it.  It didn't really catch on as well as the other photo paper methods, and it does take a little trial and error in the beginning but I like not having to scrub the paper off of boards the parchment will peel right off when heated enough. I was in a hurry one day and went straight from ironing it onto the copper to right in the etchent the heated up board etched super fast.

Feel free to ask anything I'll try to be as helpful as I can.
Yorn desh born, der ritt de gitt der gue,
Orn desh, dee born desh, de umn bork! bork! bork!

tjcombs

Well, I was mostly curious if you've had consistent results, but apparently you have :icon_biggrin:
Thanks!
Pedals Built - MXR Dist + / WY Harmonics Booster preamp / Rebote 2.5 / Ruby / Rangemaster
Next Project - Some sort of tube amp or mic preamp maybe?????
www.myspace.com/glorynights

Mark Hammer

If I may interject one thing here, and I don't mean to be didactic or facetious, but the reason why both PnP and glossy photo paper "work" is because both have a coating that releases from the paper/acetate backing.  The toner itself is not doing the resist but is transporting the resist, which is either the blue coating or the glossy emulsion.

Though it is true that parchment paper (used some last night for making some great chocolate chip cookies) withstands heat very nicely, and while it is likely true that toner adheres to it for a bit and will then transfer to copper with applied heat, the toner doesn't bring anything along with it because the parchment paper HAS no coating.  So, while my faced initially perked up at the thought of using parchment paper for toner transfer (and in principal you could use one sheet over and over again), the problem is that the toner tends not to be consistently black when printed to paper.  You can normally see, when you look REAL close, that the toner is more or less thick enough to look black to the eye from a short distance, but close up it is very often pitted.

So, the upshot is that parchment paper is a reasonable second choice, though risky because the toner itself is not as thick and consistent as the blue or glossy emulsions are.  My guess is that many boards would need touching up.

All of that is a guess, based on theory, but the fact remains that we don't use the toner for resisting; we use it for getting the real resist in the right places.

Paul Perry (Frostwave)

Quote from: thumposaurus on August 12, 2004, 03:33:44 PM
Laser printer, the only thing I noticed is that you have to be careful after it's printed not to crease it or the toner will come off.

That sounds very promising, the less it wants to stick to the paper the more likely it is to stick to the copper!

Edited to say, it might even be REUSEABLE! woohoo!