Hello, plus true-bypass and Small Clone Q's

[disaster]

Firstly, hello everyone. hopefully I can contribute to the formidable knowledge base around here and learn some stuff too.

also- I'm having some trouble with my Small Clone. it's one of the OG reissues, so no true-bypass.
I rewired the thing with a 3pdt, and now the bypass side and the LED work fine, but all the signal dies when the switch is ON. anyone have a diagram I can check out to make sure I wired the switch properly for this particular pedal (I've TB'd several of my other pedals before with no problems.)

Thanks in advance. hopefully it is just bad switch wiring and i didnt screw something else up.

[disaster]

any ideas?
anyone?

(crickets)

[Meanderthal]

 Is it a volume drop, or is the signal missing? Not clear...

[disaster]

signal's completely gone...

[sfr]

I'm unfamiliar with a genuine Small Clone, (although I have built a clone) but many chorus pedals that aren't true bypass achieve
"bypass" by lifting the delayed and modulated signal from the mix, leaving just the clean.  If you were true bypassing a pedal of this type, you'd want to make sure that you hardwired the delayed signal to always be in the mix - although failing to do this would usually leave you with a clean signal in bypass, not *no* signal in bypass, but if you were relocating wires to do the bypass job you may have inadvertendly lifted the clean signal from the pedal. 

See the "what to do when it doesn't work" thread.

But I'd start with making sure the input and output from the jacks isn't accidently shorted to ground.  Then I'd take the multimeter and make sure I'm getting power to the circuitry and that the other misc. voltages look appropriate.    A schematic is available at Tonepad, and while the layout will be different and there may be some minor changes in the schematic, it should at least help you to identify things. 

I don't know what the voltages are supposed to be offhand, but searching here at the forum may help you out.  If you can't find them, you can post the voltages you have here and someone may be able to help you more.

The other thing I'd do is get an audio probe and start following the signal path - does audio even make it *into* the pedal circuitry?  If so, where does it stop?  I believe the audio probe is discussed in the "what to do when it doesn't work" thread, as well as in the FAQ linked from up top here.

But yeah, an audio probe is probably your best friend here.  If the problem is your switching job, you should probably be able to find really quick where the signal dies.