SD-1 - True Bypass

Started by Dylfish, February 27, 2007, 10:52:21 PM

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Dylfish

Hey guys,
for me being not too experienced with this stuff this might sound somewhat ambitious, but i own a sd-1 and would like to modify it, but i thought id like to change a few things with it.
anyways i have a schematic for a SD-1 and was thinking of making my own PCB and changing a few things over a series of steps (Clipping modes, Diode types etc), anyways i know a sd-1 uses a flip flop circut for its switching and i was wondering how easy it is to create a sd-1 using a 3pdt switch with true bypass?

The Area in the box is thge flip flop circut yeah? How would i go about modifying that?

Thanks in Advance

petemoore

  Better wait till someone who's done it responds, I don't know if the Jfet's'd survive...
  Shorting the G/S connections of the input and output buffers, so the signal path is direct wired through the distortion circuit, then 'wrap' the circuit in a DPDT [or 3pdt] bypass scheme, from 'in' and 'out' boxes on schematic..if physical space permits, it has been done IIRC, but those Boss Boxes are tight for this.
  A loop box could be considered.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

MartyMart

Three trace cuts gets the "flip/flop" out of the way :
1- Just above the 0.047uf after input buffer
2/3- After vol pot before the sk30 fet and after the 0.047uf at the 22k pair junction
that goes to the output buffer.
Connect the volpot to the final buffer before the 1M to VB and you're done.
Then just connect the circuit In/Out and jacks to a switch "as normal"
Squeezing a 3PDT in is tough, there may just be room where the original switch
lives but depth of the switch housing may be too much - measure twice and cut once !!

MM.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm"
My Website www.martinlister.com

Barcode80

i've tried with the 3pdt, the switch is too deep to fit in the stock location, but you can put it there and drill through the top of the actuator and use it that way. you just wouldn't be using the stock actuator, which i think defeats the purpose of using the same box. my suggestion would be to make a new PCB with NEW PARTS, not including the buffer, and house it in a new enclosure. i have a pnp copy of the original board, you could edit out the traces marty refers to (or leave out the parts) and use it, if you like.

Dylfish

yeah that would be great mate, the intention was to redesign it on a new pcb and put it in a new enclosure anyway
if you could show me the pcb layout that would be tops,
thanks guys