electronic shielding foil?

[sjaltenb]

hey anyone know where i can buy the type of stuff i need to line the interior of my Cornish board with to shield everything? Thanks

[dxm1]

Have you thought about aluminium foil and contact cement (or 3M-77)? Cheap and easy.

[sjaltenb]

will this work??? If so that would be great!!

[Processaurus]

Tin foil + spray adhesive is another alternative.   Figure out how to get continuity between pieces, because any adhesive will act as an insulator.  Those crimp connectors that you can put a screw through the eye (into the foil) are a good way to connect the foil to your electronic's ground.

[bancika]

stewmac.com has great copper oil with conductive adhesive. I use it for shielding guitars and it's great.

[Chuck]

You can also buy metal based paint at Home Depot or Lowes.
Its the paint they use for kids rooms, so magnets stick on the walls.
A quart can weighs about 20 pounds.

[mattpocket]

Aluminium foil can end up being more trouble than its worth, and very messy too! haha Although if you are covering a large area it might work ok. When you are doing tight spaces though you have to do it in little strips to get around corners and whatnot and it means folding the edge of the foil over on every strip..

kind of like this:

------------------------------!
                       !-------     !
                       !      ------!
                       !----------------------------

[oldrocker]

Home Depot or Lowes sells foil tape.  I use it frequently but be careful some tape has a clear coating over the foil surface so that can be a pain.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

If money is no object (hah!) then thin brass sheet is fantastic, plus it is the easiest thing in the world to solder to. Model supply places have it. (even my local hardware). Also it is rigid enough to make little boxes from it, to shield parts of a layout.

[John Lyons]

Here's my take:  my shielding foil procedure

[Ben N]

I have gotten thick copper foil at Michaels, the crafts store. Not cheap, but great stuff, and solderable (unlike aluminum). Depending on how intense you want this shielding layer to be, you might consider copper roof flashing (Home Depot).

Ben

[sjaltenb]

Thanks BasicAudio. I used your method, hopefully it worked well... i basically just tried to join every piece a couple different ways with different pieces so it should work...i'll post pics tonight

[runmikeyrun]

I use a method that's basically the same as basicaudios.  The tape sticks well to most surfaces (i use mine on wood boxes, have also used on plastic with no problems) and while you can't solder to it if you are using jacks that ground as long as you leave a large amount around where your jacks are going to touch you won't have a problem, although check to make sure your tape isn't clear coated like someone mentioned or you won't have a connection.

[John Lyons]

One thing that I may not have mentioned in my article is that if you take clear packing tape you can seal over the places other than where you want to make a sheild connection. This holds everything down and prevents the pot tabs from grounding out if you have to recess the pot bodies into the wood/plastic a little. (often I find that the pot lugs are a little too close to the shileding tape and in case it peels up, the packing tape will insulate the shielding from the lugs)
The clear tape also holds down your foil overlaps nicely.

John

[axg20202]

You can get adhesive-backed copper tape from garden supply shops (at least you can in the UK) - its sold as a product to stick around flower pots to stop slugs (they get an eletric shock when they try to cross the tape haha). Cheap and effective and easy to bridge with solder.

Andy.

[sjaltenb]

heres the pic...keep in mind some of that foil that does not look to be folded over is just being used to block off the holes while spray painting the exterior...i didnt have anythign else handy



Ok so, im new to all this stuff and not really familiair with the whole grounding process and all its properties... The box is made of wood but it has a lot of metal that is screwed into the wood for the jack panels and all the panels for the pots for each effect....

So say I have an effect with a wire that is usually grounded to a jack, but in this case  because there wont be jacks between effects, can i just send this wire to one of those terminal strips? If so, does that terminal strip have to connected in someway to somethig else metal, or just screwed onto the wood?

Thanks for helpin out someone new to this whole thing...

heres an update of the front, i did a quick paint job only to realize i had not sanded nearly well enough!


Incase your wondering, this is whats goin in to it:

Input A/B
BYOC Silicon/Germanium Selectable Fuzz w/ 108s
GGG Buffer
Boss CS2
BYOC DynaComp
Whammy S/R (Stereo for single cable connection)
FullDriveII Clone (1-Clean Boost) – Modded BYOC 808
BYOC Rat
BYOC Muff w/ Dedicated Dano EQ
FullDriveII Clone (2-Overdrive)- Modded BYOC 808
Wah S/R (modded to stereo for single cable connection) w/ Reverse for Pink Floyd's "Echoes"
S/R 1
Boss CE2
Deluxe Electric Mistress (with LB2 boost to compensate for Volume Drop)
Modded Chicken Salad Vibe
BYOC ScriptPhase90
BYOC Tremolo
S/R2
Dano EQ 1
Dano EQ 2
Volume S/R
Boss DD20
Boss DD20 (2)

*Both DD20s use wet/dry outputs that will be mixed with a passive mixer which allows for onboard or external volume pedal control of repeat and loop volume. Also, mechanical 3PDT bypassing with allow for loop mute without loss of memory

[John Lyons]

Wow! Look very ambitious there!!
I would run the grounds from each effect together and then run a single wire from each effects bundle of grounds to the main ground point which connects to the chassis or sell of the box with the foil tape. How are you going to route the FX? All in series? You are going to need to make 100% sure they all get a long if you do that.

If ever you get stranded one a desrt island with that pedal board you can flip it over and use it for a solor oven!!

John