My Tube Screamer project.

[QSQCaito]

Hello guys. I've done around 4 effects, but none of those are nice, they're ugly. And I decided that as I was playing lots of SRV it was a good time to make a TS, but it is time to make something good, tidy and nice.

This being said I'm planning everything to have a tube screamer that will suffer envy . I have already downloaded corel draw and have been practicing a lot. I'm about to buy t-shirt transfer to the transfer of the design, and here arrives the first question. This transfer can be Inkjet, or laser( photocopier too). I don't know which to buy, after doing the trnasfer I was willing to put clear coat, but I fear inkjet and/or laser transfer might move, which one you suggest would work best?

Entering on the circuit, I was planning to use the GGG layout. With some mods, of course. One of the mods would be ts-808 to ts-9. I did some research, but couldn't find a lyout/schematic of how it is done.

Is it done this way??

Brief Explanation: the two resistors soldered together, and to the pcb. The other side of the resistors go to each extreme of the DPDT, and the center to where originally goes the other side of the resistor.

I was thinking about doing the symmetrical, asymmetrical clipping mod. Do you believe it is woth it? Not to put 100 diode choices and end using one, but if I have symm and asymm clipping, do you believe it is woth it?

And last, but not least, the AMZ fat modification(switch that bypasses C3).

I would build it with this 3 mods, what do you think?? My idea is to have tha option of having an original replica of the ts808, but also being able to have some different tones

Bye bye, thanks a lot!

DAC

Any comment, whatever you want to say is welcomed.

PS Do you know which is the font of the letters used in the old tubescreamer??(the TUBESCREAMER font)

And, BTW, the pot rotation is ussually 270°?

[chieljan]

Hey,

most people say sonic difference with TS808-TS9 mod is almost NONE. If you wan't a mod that changes sound in an audible way, try the difference between LED, Si and GE diodes, or asy and sym clipping as suggested on buildyourownclone.com. A "bass boost-mid hump" switch with .22/.47uF caps really works too. Did the last two to my own TS808 clone, makes big difference, real nice. Look at buildyourownclone.com.

TS808 is a great project. Good luck!

CJ

[QSQCaito]

Thanks a lot!

One more thing I fotgot to ask, which booster would be prefered to put in front the TS? To be housed in the same box.

[petemoore]

  They all sound different.
  Omega is a great sounding simple' Distortion driver.
  I'd start with one you think you'll like anyway...
  JFet or something.
  Consider a compressor...
  It might be worth the extra effort to try somethings out before dedicating one to the TS.
 

[QSQCaito]

That sounds cool pete. I've made the stratoblaster and I put it in my guitar. It distorts at full gain, a very nice distorsion.

But, what do you think would be better, to put a distorting booster infront of it, or a non distorting.

If non: Microamp-

If yes: LPB2, AMZ

Opinions??

BTW, the ts808 ts9 switch is as i draw it??

Thanks a lto


bye bye


DAC

[m-theory]

I can second the byoc site suggestion.  Lots of great ideas there.  I would recommend the mods to make less minimum gain and more maximum gain, use a B2k pot for tone, use 1 uf film caps in place of the non-polarized electrolytics, swap that 510k resistor for the 620k, replace the .22 tantalum caps with .1 or .15 (these don't have to be tant), replace the .047uf film cap with a .22 or .1, and then play around with diode options and see what suits you best.  If you go asymmetrical, use a different part number for the third position, because it'll be more "tubey."  Red LEDs are pretty impressive.

As for boosts, every dirt circuit that I build gets a mosfet boost AFTER the dirt.  It's totally personal preference as to where a boost goes, of course, but I much prefer it after dirt boxes, when I'm using them.  It keeps the dirt from getting mushy, it really punches the signal of the dirt cleanly, and it allows you to use the boost to drive the snot out of a tube amp, if so desired. 

[m-theory]

I would add too, that I don't think a TS808/TS9 switch would be worth the effort.  I doubt you'll even hear a difference.  You'd hear far more difference by using that switch to add a couple different types of 3rd diode in. 

[QSQCaito]

That's cool, thanks a lot

I'll probably put a microamp in front. The ts808, I want to have it original, so the mods i will make will be:
symm, asymm. and the fat modification which bypasses C3.

Conerning aesthetics, not to create another thread:

I'm about to buy t-shirt transfer to make transfer of the design. This transfer can be Inkjet, or laser( photocopier too). I don't know which to buy, after doing the transfer I was willing to put clear coat, but I fear inkjet and/or laser transfer might move, which one you suggest would work best?

[QSQCaito]

bump, no clues??

Sry I'm insitent, it's just I need to buy that transfer paper before it runs out :p, but don't wanna waste my money.

[chieljan]

Dunno anything about transfer paper, just on electronics

Make a new post so people will see you are asking about transfer paper, not a tube screamer. Should attract more transfer paper experts

Good luck!
CJ

[QSQCaito]

I guess i've got no other choice. It's just me that I don't like to create a new thread for a simple question.

Bye bye

thabnks a lot

DAC

[Barcode80]

well, whatever printer you use will determine what you buy, buy the corresponding type (inkjet if you use an inkjet, etc.) if you have access to both and your question is which one to use, that would depend on the graphic and the type of printer. if it is a black and white laser versus a color inkjet, i think obviously it depends on whether you want color or not. if both are color, it has been my experience that laser is easier to work with. inkjet works just fine, but you will want to spray a good clear over it once you transfer, but you have to be careful because the clear can make the ink run. just do VERY light dusting coats and let each dry completely and you'll be fine. laser is a little less tedious because there is (IME) less chance of it running once you apply the clear.

hope this helps!

[QSQCaito]

Patrick, that was exactly what I was looking for

Thanks a lot.
I have a broken inkjet printer which is now being repaired, anyway I'm buying the laser ones. I have 10 blocks away a guy who prints laser and has colour photocopier. If laser will give better, easier results, it's defintively the way to go. They cost the same(less than 1 USD an A4 sheet.). And applying the clear coat was also an important point to consider.

Thanks a lot once again

Bye bye

DAC

[QSQCaito]

Hey guys. Rebirth of thread.


Would you put a clean AMZ mosfet boost inside the ts. Or you would rather get a dirtier sounding booster, such as ones at ROG?

If put in front, or after.. I guess I'll have to see how I like it most.