Newbie Switch question - SD-1

[JayK]

This might be a simple question..be here goes.

I have a Boss SD-1 that has the Monty Allums GT mod (which sounds fantastic).  The on/off switch just failed and I want to put the pedal in a new enclosure (BB pre-drilled from Small Bear), to give me more room and replace the switch....what kind of switch do I need (carling 316 DPDT)?

Thanks

Jay

[moro]

I think this is what you're looking for:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=36

Also, if you're going to be re-boxing it, you could convert it to true bypass and use a 3PDT.

[JayK]

Is true by-pass easy???   If so, how?

Thanks..

jay

[the_random_hero]

Is true by-pass easy???   If so, how?

Thanks..

jay

Basically deleting the whole flip-flop switching deal and isolating the inputs and outputs. If you have a schematic, I'm sure a few people here could help you out.

[smallbearelec]

A couple of suggestions:

The switch that Moro pointed to is the OEM repair part; you would use that if you meant to keep the pedal in the existing housing and not do true-bypass. Since you are going to re-house the pedal, you need a stomp switch, not a tactile like the existing pedal uses.

For a stomper that is the electrical equal of the existing tactile switch, I'd suggest either the Carling 110-PM-OFF or the X-wing SPDT Momentary. Either will work, but the Carling is more rugged.

True-bypassing a pedal that was designed for electronic switching is sometimes desireable, but it's never a trivial job. If someone here can point you to a "recipe," fine. Then you would most likely use a 3PDT stomp switch. But this is a fair amount of work, and the small difference in transparency is sometimes not worth it.

Regards
SD

[moro]

Matsumin has a page on this. Even if you can't read Japanese, the photos are helpful. (I haven't done the mod myself, though I plan to soon. It looks pretty straightforward.)

http://matsumin.gozaru.jp/diy/modify/SD-1/index.htm

1. Place a jumper between wires 6 and 7 where they attach to the board.
2. Remove Q2.
3. Remove Q1 and jumper the outside pads.

After you do the above, the effect should be on all the time. Test for this.

4. Place a jumper between wires 17 and 18 where they attach to the board.
5. Remove R30.

Steps 4 and 5 disable the indicator LED. From here, you can just use a 3PDT to wire up the whole thing the way you like. Matsumin has instructions on how to hookup a millenium bypass, but not being too familar with that, I'm not too sure what he's talking about.

Finally: cut wire 14. You don't need it anymore.

[moro]

The switch that Moro pointed to is the OEM repair part; you would use that if you meant to keep the pedal in the existing housing and not do true-bypass. Since you are going to re-house the pedal, you need a stomp switch, not a tactile like the existing pedal uses.

Thanks for the clarification. 

True-bypassing a pedal that was designed for electronic switching is sometimes desireable, but it's never a trivial job. If someone here can point you to a "recipe," fine. Then you would most likely use a 3PDT stomp switch. But this is a fair amount of work, and the small difference in transparency is sometimes not worth it.

In this particular case, it seems like it'd be worth it, since the SD-1 has a famously bad bypass. A lot of people end up doing the bleed fix mod, and it seems like if you're going to be rehousing the pedal, you might as well go all out and true bypass the thing.

Just my 2c.

[Ben N]

True-bypassing a pedal that was designed for electronic switching is sometimes desireable, but it's never a trivial job. If someone here can point you to a "recipe," fine. Then you would most likely use a 3PDT stomp switch. But this is a fair amount of work, and the small difference in transparency is sometimes not worth it.

In this particular case, it seems like it'd be worth it, since the SD-1 has a famously bad bypass. A lot of people end up doing the bleed fix mod, and it seems like if you're going to be rehousing the pedal, you might as well go all out and true bypass the thing.

Just my 2c.

I have heard all about the SD-1 bleed, but have never experienced it on my unmodded SD-1. I think that is one of those things where "YMMV". Personally, I think Boss enclosures are excellent, and their byass generally good, so I wouln't be in too much of a rush to take on this kind of project. However, I seem to recall someone (CD?) posting a photo essay on how to convert an SD-1 to true bypass using the original enclosure a while back. Anyway, good luck.

[MetalGod]

True-bypassing a pedal that was designed for electronic switching is sometimes desireable, but it's never a trivial job. If someone here can point you to a "recipe," fine. Then you would most likely use a 3PDT stomp switch. But this is a fair amount of work, and the small difference in transparency is sometimes not worth it.

In this particular case, it seems like it'd be worth it, since the SD-1 has a famously bad bypass. A lot of people end up doing the bleed fix mod, and it seems like if you're going to be rehousing the pedal, you might as well go all out and true bypass the thing.

Just my 2c.

I have heard all about the SD-1 bleed, but have never experienced it on my unmodded SD-1. I think that is one of those things where "YMMV". Personally, I think Boss eclosures are excellent, ad their byass generally good, so I wouln't be in too much of a rush to take on this kind of project. However, I seem to recall someone (CD?) posting a photo essay on how to convert an SD-1 to true bypass using the original enclosure a while back. Anyway, good luck.

Same here, I've never heard any bleed-through in bypass mode - I've got four SD-1s here right now that are all fine (my old MIJ one, two I'm modding for a friend and a Keeley one)

If you can read a schematic it's not that big of a deal converting to true bypass, though 'why' is another question altogether.

[JayK]

wow...thanks for all the advice.  I think the Monty Allums mod fixed the bleed problem....(I will have to check for sure).  So I think I will skip the true by-pass, since it sounds a bit out of my league.

Jay

[Papa_lazerous]

I have heard all about the SD-1 bleed, but have never experienced it on my unmodded SD-1

Seriously you havent heard it??  I've never heard one that doesnt suffer from it.  turn the drive all the way up then stomp it into bypass on a clean amp and you will hear it!  If not turn your amp up a bit you will here some of the effect bleeding through.  roll back the drive whilst in bypass and here it go away.

I will be amazed if it doesnt do it!