Ways of Etching my PCBs?

[zwound]

So i'm looking at making my own PCBs using etching...but one guy said that i need to print on a peice of transparent paper with a LASER PRINTER, and then ironing that on copper clad...

the only problem i have with that is using laser printer...and possibly using transparent paper...

is there any alternative to them? I don't want to buy a laser printer because it's kinda expensive.

i was wondering if anyone could suggest doing it some otehr way.

Cheers dudes.

[captntasty]

It sounds like he is talking about Press 'n Peel Blue (PNP for short) which is a special kind of paper.  You print the image (with a laser printer) and then iron it on like you would a T-shirt transfer.  It transfers the image onto the copper and when you put it in an etchant (ferric chloride or ammonium sulphate) only the areas that are covered by the transfer are left, the rest of the copper is etched.  There are variants of this method - I think I've heard of people using the glossy type of newspaper stock for the same process.

The most lo-tech approach is to draw all the traces with a Sharpie - this will protect the copper in the etching process.

There is also my favorite method - presensitized copper-clad board material.  Its alot like developing pictures.  You use transparency sheets with artwork on them - it used to be only a laser printer would do it, but to my pleasant surprise, I found they have come out with transparency sheets that can be used with an inkjet printer - sweet, no more trips to Kinkos.

So, you have a few options, there are methods where no etching is required - Vero board, perfboard, etc.
Peace,
P

[zwound]

Thanks!

well, perf is kinda depressing when it comes to error search..

that's why i want a pcb...but you gave me a good idea of going to a copyshop to make my prints  (so i dont need to get my own printer)

Thanks!

[markusw]

Personally, I prefer photo PCBs.
You just need a 250W bulb and of course the photo sensitive PCBs.
They are a bit more expensive but if you consider you don't need PNP it doesn't matter.
I usually make two copies of the layout on a transparency using my ink jet and tape them together (so the black parts are really black). To ensure that no light creeps below the transparency it is fixed to the PCB by putting a glas plate on top of the sandwich and taping the glas to the tabletop.
With the 250W bulb and 18 cm distance from the PCB it takes me 10 min to develop a Bungard board (might be that other boards take a different time). Sure it could be faster but I never had a faulty PCB this way.
Developing is done with e.g. 1% NaOH, etching as you like.

You really don't need any special equipment, just the bulb and the glas plate.

Have fun 

Markus

[boyersdad]

Check out local thrift and junk stores, and you'll probably find a laser printer or two for super cheap. The toner can be expensive, but if you find one with a half full cartridge, you can make a thousand or more PCBs.

[BubbaKahuna]

Check out local thrift and junk stores, and you'll probably find a laser printer or two for super cheap. The toner can be expensive, but if you find one with a half full cartridge, you can make a thousand or more PCBs.

I bought an HP LaserJet 4MP with expanded memory & a good toner cartridge in it a few months ago at the local Goodwill for $10.
I also print on old band flyers that were done on very thin glossy paper. Works perfect.
I also use PNP, but it works only a little better than my flyers (which are now useless since a member change).

Cheers,
- JJ

[Hiwatt25]

I got a great samsund laser printer at newegg for fifty bucks.  It works like a charm.

[smallbearelec]

Hi--

My tutorial on the basics of making your own boards is here:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/DirectPCBoards/DirectPCBoards.htm

I did all of the pics at a local rent-a-PC place, so I can assure you that it's not necessary to have your own laser printer. All of the tools and materials are available on my stock list.

Regards
Steve Daniels

[bumblebee]

If the circuits simple,like fuzz or something i just draw it on with resistant pens.
It works the same,its not perfect but saves a trip to the store.
I actually draw about 9/10 of of 'em due to laziness.

[zjokka]

I started out experimenting with laser picture paper, inkjet picture paper and other have used transparent sheets, glossy magazine paper, baking paper, cigarette and toilet paper...

why did nobody try to etch pcbs with plain laser copier paper?

try it!
zj

[tranceracer]

zwound,
There's many threads on this forum about this Here's one:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=60568.0

why did nobody try to etch pcbs with plain laser copier paper?

Tried that... It's more work to remove the paper from the toner xfer than inkjet photo paper IMO.  The toner tends to stick the paper and peels the trace off the board.

I'm still in the magazine paper corner for now...  Very cheap and excellent results and least amount of work. 

I just wish I knew about some of these techniques on this forum before I spent a ton of money on photo etching equipment halogen light, developer and extra cost for the photo sensitive boards.  I think my photo etching kit cost me around 70+ bucks.  Thats not including the money spent on finding a good brand of transparencies.  Mostl transparencies produce good dark high contrast laser prints for photo etching.  The best transparencies I've found are the inkjet transparencies, but are expensive.  I've also tried doubling up on transparencies but I'd often find that the traces dont always line up exactly.  Also, I over developed a few of the photo sensitive boards which left me with a bunch of plain Cu boards that I didn't know what to do with until I came across the inkjet photo paper xfer method.  Also, photo sensitive boards is, they have a shelf life.

Before I purchased a personal Laser printer, I used to take the master ink jet trace and make copies at a local supermarket, office depot and office max.  Very nice thick toner transfers on inkjet photo paper.  The office supply store's copiers paper drawers are accessible so just place the inkjet photo paper in the drawer.  I had to get the manager to open the drawer at my local supermarket (bit of a hassle) and she gave me that "do you know what your doing" look.  (;

Again, the bottom line like many members on this fine forum have said, use that technique that works best for you.  (;

-tR

[grolschie]

Don't bother if you have a recent Brother laser printer. The toner stuck well and truly to my magazine paper and not a spec stuck to the copper. I scrubbed and cleaned the copper, and ironed the crap out of it. Nothing. Nadda. Seemed to bake onto the paper instead.

[tranceracer]

Sorry to hear that... I have a Brother 2040, though the toner is a little thin (not like the nice thick copies from the xerox copiers at the Office Max or Depot) it works good enough.  I sometimes have to re-trace some of the thin spots with a sharpie.

Maybe the iron is not hot enough or maybe the transfer may have to be soaked a little longer before removing the paper.  I also use a cotton rag to evenly distribute the pressure and heat of the iron on the board.

-tR

[km-r]

my god,
i even sometimes use the old-school MASKING TAPE and STENCIL CUTTER method!!