Anyone recognise these diodes?

[ambulancevoice]

my Zoom B1 died on me again, so i thought, @#$% it im not getting it replaced for a second time, ill just gut it
and i did...
i scored a bunch of electrolytics, and some new jacks
most of it was smd, except these diodes which i found on the board
they look sorta like mini germs, but i dont know, they are unmarked too

i also found another diode, it has a black body with wierd markings (which i cant read, yet) in green, and a green line to denote the cathode, it looks like smaller black/green version of 1n4001
sorry for the slightly blurry pic, it was twice as blurry, so i tried to sharpen it

[ambulancevoice]

come on!! anyone???

[searoad]

i found lots of boss pedals use the same diodes like the first pic shows

maybe they are used in many japanese instruments

[petemoore]

  Hard to tell just by lookin'.
  The first ones look kinda zener-ey, the last one looks Si rectifier type.
  Measure the threshold voltage, that might offer more clues.

[MetalGod]

The pink ones look like the diodes used in the MIJ Boss pedals.  Easy way to tell if they're Si or Ge - diode test function on your DMM.  I'd say they're 99% certain to be Si.

Was it really worth gutting for £5 worth of parts (at best)

[SonicVI]

Somehow I doubt that they used Ge diodes in a Zoom pedal.   They just look like 1n914/4148 type with a yellow band instead of black.

[ambulancevoice]

yeah, im leaning towards the idea that they are just 1n4148/914's with a different look
there hooked up (if you cant tell) in series, all three of them
and that other diode is close to the power supply, so it could be a filtering rectifier Si diode

and unfortunetly... i dont have a DMM
dont hurt me!

[ambulancevoice]

The pink ones look like the diodes used in the MIJ Boss pedals.  Easy way to tell if they're Si or Ge - diode test function on your DMM.  I'd say they're 99% certain to be Si.

Was it really worth gutting for £5 worth of parts (at best)

yes it was, cause i lost the receipt too, and i scored a cool enclosure aswell
anyway, that thing was kind of annoying

[soulsonic]

You should get a DMM. Decent ones can be had for really panda cheap. They even have transistor checking and all other kinds of silly crap on them, even the cheap ones. It makes things so much easier.

[ambulancevoice]

yes, i will invest my next sum of money into a getting a digital panda meter

[demonstar]

I used some that were similiar to this for clipping the other week and they sounded really good. I understand similar doesn't really help. Especially when I don't know what mine are either but by googling i found this...

"http://www.csgnetwork.com/diodecolorstable.html"

That may help I don't know.

Anyway, the way I do it is just wack them in and see how they sound. That way we don't think they sound good just because we know they're germanium or vice versa. It's all that matters at the end of the day I suppose unless you not using them for clipping. I just buy a random mixed bag and see what sounds good.

Just an idea!

[ambulancevoice]

i actually didnt really understand that site....

[demonstar]

After looking at your picture again, I'm not sure It'll work for your diodes but this is how it's done anyhow...

1. The diodes colour code is read starting at the side where the band is nearest to the end of the diode. I find I often can't tell which end this is.

2. Lets say our diode is yellow, brown, yellow,grey.

3. We automatically put the "1N" in front then we have yellow-4, brown-1, yellow-4, grey-8. So we have a 1N4148 diode.

4. It could also have a letter after that or a black band or it could be blank.

5. A black band is the equivalent of no band. So you ignore it.

6. A blue band on the end would mean it had an F suffix therefore we would have 1N4148F

I hope that helps you understand it. I cannot vouch for the reliability of the site but it appears to make sense and sounds realistic. It may be possible to have two diodes that are different but have the same colour code. i don't know it just looks like it could happen because of the 3, 4 or 5 band colour system.

Hope that's helps you understand it. Sorry that it probably won't help with identifying your diodes.

[ambulancevoice]

After looking at your picture again, I'm not sure It'll work for your diodes but this is how it's done anyhow...

1. The diodes colour code is read starting at the side where the band is nearest to the end of the diode. I find I often can't tell which end this is.

2. Lets say our diode is yellow, brown, yellow,grey.

3. We automatically put the "1N" in front then we have yellow-4, brown-1, yellow-4, grey-8. So we have a 1N4148 diode.

4. It could also have a letter after that or a black band or it could be blank.

5. A black band is the equivalent of no band. So you ignore it.

6. A blue band on the end would mean it had an F suffix therefore we would have 1N4148F

I hope that helps you understand it. I cannot vouch for the reliability of the site but it appears to make sense and sounds realistic. It may be possible to have two diodes that are different but have the same colour code. i don't know it just looks like it could happen because of the 3, 4 or 5 band colour system.

Hope that's helps you understand it. Sorry that it probably won't help with identifying your diodes.

ah i see
this might help in future diode discoveries