reverb on vero?

[gnarlyguitarist6]

hey im just wondering if anybody has a vero layout for any type of reverb pedal...im building the ruby amp and i want to put a red llama distortion and some type of reverb in it.  if anyone could help me out with a reverb vero layout i'd really appreciate it, thanks in advance.

Kevin

[fixr1984]

Here It is untested as far as I know.
Or if you dont mind PCB the same project is at GGG
I cant comment on the Vero version but the GGG version is pretty decent sounding, I built mine into a Valve Jr. amp.

[squidsquad]

Yo Kevin,

Hopin ya noticed you still need a spring tank.  Only way to get reverb in a pedal without it, is digital...and that project ain't.

[km-r]

^ or play in a spacious room... or get that spacious room in your pedal... 

[gnarlyguitarist6]

cool, i guess ill use that layout.  so no one knows if its verified?  and squidsquad, yeai no im lookin into getting a 9" reverb tank.  can i just put that anywhere in the amp enclosure?  also, where should i put the reverb circuit?  i know the red llama will go before the ruby amp, but should the reverb be before the llama, between the llama and the amp, or after the amp circuit?  sorry to ask such simple questions ive been building pedals and not amps so i wnat to make sure of everything before i start building.  thanks.

[Mark Hammer]

IMHO, the best location for the reverb input is as close to the front end as you can get it, and the best place for the reverb output is as close to the back end as you can get it.  That is, you drive the reverb pan with a clean signal, and mix its clean output back in with the distorted/modified signal.  If it was a delay-type effect, that would be one thing, but reverb just tends to sound bad when it uses an already compressed and distorted input signal.  Of course, it would not be unreasonable or imprudent to provide yourself with a switch to select where the reverb draws its input from, clean or distorted.  My guess would be that it stayed on clean most of the time, but your tastes may vary.

Just one somewhat awkward question:  Is it your intent to make a Ruby amp because it can be run off a 9v battery?  If that's the case, I would reconsider incorporating reverb.  I can't think of many reverbs that don't draw significant current.  If you wanted some reasonable battery life, you probably want to plan around using C or even D cells.  Making signals is easy.  Moving stuff, like speakers and springs, takes current and lots of it.

The other thing to consider is what sort of tone you want from your reverb.  Any reverb driver/recovery circuitry I've ever seen offers the possibility to change the tonal spectrum of what you drive the springs with and what you take out of them.  Something like the Ruby or any other headphone/small-speaker power amp will get distorted fairly easily, simply because one needs to push it hard to get reasonable loudness when not using headphones.  In that sort of context, my gut sense is that you'll want to take the brunt of the bass out of what you send to the springs, and shave off even a little more when it comes out of the springs.  In other words, you will want the springs to add just a hint of "air" by being as bright as you can make them.

That's just my guess.  It may well sound better, stock, than I am imagining it to sound.