BMP 1uf cap sub help

Started by Sody54, November 01, 2007, 11:15:53 PM

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Sody54

I'm building the BMP on vero using Torchy's layout--->  http://www.indyguitarist.com/torchy/Distortion_Overdrive/EH%20Big%20Muff%20Pi/BMP.gif

I didn't have any 1uf caps so I stopped at Bomb shack on my way to work tonight. Need 5, they only had 3.  so I picked up 2 1uf tants.  My question is, where would you sub the tants in?  Is there one spot in the circuit better than another?  Or doesn't it really matter.

I hope that makes sense, been a rough night at work so far and I want to finish this circuit in the morning when I get home.  Have a cool enclosure I made here at work from a solid aluminum billet to house it in. :)

Thanks for any pointers.

Brian

ambulancevoice

i dont think the 1uf caps are tantulums, i cant see any polarization marking or anything that indicates that its 1uf tantalum cap
maybe you should just build it to stock
Open Your Mouth, Heres Your Money

frokost

Use sockets and just fool around until you like the sound.

Sody54

They're not tantalums on the layout.  I didn't have ready access to more than three 1uf film caps, so I was going to sub in the tants for 2 of the five 1uf film caps.  I'm hoping that if they're oriented properly they won't affect the circuit.  (Still learning)

Brian

foxfire

i can't give you a suggestion on where to put them based on sound quality but. as for orienting them...
if you use one for C1 you would want to have the neg. side up and the pos. down and for C13 you would have the pos. side up and neg. down. i use the general rule that on NPN circuits the input side of a polarized input cap should be the neg. side and, that the output side of a polarized output cap should be the neg. side. but if you have sockets, use them and report back.   

m_charles

#5
3 ways to solve this. Get .22uf or .47uf. (both at radio slack). For the ones you don't have. You'll hardly hear a difference, if anything it will slightly tighten up the sound (this is a good thing to many people). Put your regular (electrolytic) 1ufs on the in and out. + facing out on the IN. - facing out on the OUT.

or if you use the 1uf tants (some say they are harsh, but they'll probably be just fine):

fuzz #1 lug: + board, - pot
fuzz #2 lug: - pot, + board
cap from Q2 to Q3: - Q1, +Q2

or # 3: butcher an old electronics device. You're bound to find a 1uf or 2 you can salvage.
hope this helps.

chuck

Sody54

Chuck,

Thanks for the tips!  I wasn't sure how much difference using the lower value caps would make. And being I'm not all that swift at troubleshooting yet I wanted to try and keep it as close to stock as possible value-wise.  I'll try it with the lower value caps first, then the tants.  Here goes some more sockets :)

Thanks everyone!

Brian

oldrocker

I used all 1uf tants in my BMP.  Sounds great.