Best input/output jacks

[sjaltenb]

Which jacks should i use to have the best control of noise/grounding.

i ordered a bunch of regular switchcraft mono/stereo jacks for all the inputs/outputs/sends/returns but now i have read that the normals ones have a tendency to try to ground to the plate they are attached to and that i should use a certain type that will only ground to whatever i ground it to. this might not make any sense, im new to all this.....

thanks!

[jayp5150]

If I understanding what you mean, any metal-bodied jack will ground to the surface it's attached to (since sleeve is ground, and the actual sleeve in this case is conductive--unless, of course, you're attaching to a non-conductive material).

I've recently been using the plastic bodied Rean jacks, with the little chrome nut on them (like on Morley wahs--A dressed up version of what Aron has in the store, really; although I don't think his are Rean), but I think I'm goin back to standard open jacks next time I order parts.

It's really a preference thing.

[sjaltenb]

Right, so if i want to have control over the grounding of the inputs/outputs, shouldnt it be isolated from the mounting surface and grounded via a wire going to my star ground instead of grounding to the enclosure?

[Processaurus]

You are right.  However it is doubtful you will hear any improvement in noise floor by going to the extra effort to star ground your pedals' chassis. It has a very low resistance from one point to another, so all points on it are, for our intents and purposes, at the same electrical potential.  Like how big fat stranded wire has a lower resistance than tiny wire, only even more so.  Plus the amount of current on it from noise sources in the room aren't much to begin with.

Think about cars, everything that is grounded is just bolted to the chassis, rather than running wires back to the battery (-), because it is such a low resistance from one point to another.  The battery is grounded to the chassis with a big braided piece of wire, it is like any point on the car chassis is right there at the battery (-).

If the pedal is getting used a lot and isn't wired into a pedalboard, that means the jacks are going to be the second most most terrorized piece of hardware on the pedal next to the stompswitch.  I'd go for the reliability of cold hard steel over any marginal improvements with noise.

[stratblues]

So... is there any difference whatsoever between a Switchcraft open metal frame jack or an enclosed plastic body Switchcraft jack? As far as grounding or sound goes?

[sjaltenb]

Thanks.

Just to clarify, this is for a very large wooden Cornish style board that has been shielded with copper foil. All the panels with the jacks will be touching this foil thus essentially making a huge metal box. Does it still not make a difference?

[Processaurus]

No, it shouldn't, as long is there is good continuity (minimal resistance) between the shielding in each section.  Might be a good idea to check the resistance from section to section with the lowest ohm setting on your multi meter.

So... is there any difference whatsoever between a Switchcraft open metal frame jack or an enclosed plastic body Switchcraft jack? As far as grounding or sound goes?

They are identical electronically, as long as the enclosed type we are thinking of has a metal bushing.  Constuction wise the enclosed ones are made with thinner metal for the contacts, so they don't have as solid a *chunk* when you plug in.   I've found they are easier to get a deal on, though, so most of my pedals have ended up using them.  Plus they are smaller, and the plastic enclosure helps in rats nest pedal interiors because things can't short on the plug as easily.

Pretty much any jack without oxidation or some other grossness on the contacts will act just like a straight wire connection, so they should sound identical no matter what kind of drugs the audience is on.

[jakenold]

I really like the feel of the open Switchcraft jacks. They have never failed me.