using the small bear inkjet decals... tips/tricks?

[runmikeyrun]

I've got an enclosure that i'm about to add some waterslide decals to, but i'm not sure of the best way to get the small bear ones printed/applied.  It's been 20 years since i've built my B-17 and P-51 models so i'm a bit out of practice   

Anyhow... a few questions for use before i start experimenting:

Do i print inverse or regular? (or does it not matter?)

Is one coat of krylon sufficient?

How fragile are they?  I've seen other reports about any waterslide decal being a bit fragile.

Thanks guys!

[kurtlives]

I've got an enclosure that i'm about to add some waterslide decals to, but i'm not sure of the best way to get the small bear ones printed/applied.  It's been 20 years since i've built my B-17 and P-51 models so i'm a bit out of practice   

Anyhow... a few questions for use before i start experimenting:

Do i print inverse or regular? (or does it not matter?)

Is one coat of krylon sufficient?

How fragile are they?  I've seen other reports about any water slide decal being a bit fragile.

Thanks guys!

What are those? Sorry I am 16, maybe I am too young to know 

Just print regular, make sure the decal side (shinny side) is face down on your paper tray though. Also sometimes there is this thin  paper covering the decal side. Take it off.

They can be fragile. I suggest printed your decals than clear coating the decal paper. I usually shoot three coats.

Then apply your decals. Let dry for 24hrs or more than I shoot another 3 - 5 layers of clear coat.

[Jim Jones]

I've got an enclosure that i'm about to add some waterslide decals to, but i'm not sure of the best way to get the small bear ones printed/applied.  It's been 20 years since i've built my B-17 and P-51 models so i'm a bit out of practice   

Anyhow... a few questions for use before i start experimenting:

Do i print inverse or regular? (or does it not matter?)

Is one coat of krylon sufficient?

How fragile are they?  I've seen other reports about any water slide decal being a bit fragile.

Thanks guys!

What are those? Sorry I am 16, maybe I am too young to know 

Tsk, tsk, some fine WWII era airplanes there, son.    I'm not really a condescending jerk, just funnin' with ya.  I'm 37 but I was a WWII airplane nut as a kid.  Spitfires and Hurricanes for me!

Jim

[liddokun]

From what I remember, the ink used in consumer inkjet printers is water soluble, so clear coating the waterslide decal before applying it not only prevents it tearing due to how fragile it is, it is necessary so that the printed image does not run. Lasetjet decals do not run into this problem (with the running ink).

[runmikeyrun]

I read up on some other threads (6 year member and still forget to use the search first ) and i opted to avoid the hassle of tearing the decal with my meathooks so i printed on photo paper on my photo printer.  Came out pretty good, and i get the bonus of the white showing up to show off the embossing of the lettering.

Jim, you must a Brit with your RAF planes    I had a lot of the heavy bombers, B-25s, B-29 (the enola gay no less) and i think i had a P-47 lightning too.  I had a half finished B-29 in the basement until a couple years ago.  I brought it out one night and started thinking about finishing it.  Then my wife got pregnant, work started picking up... it's taking up space in a landfill now.  Oh well, another part of my childhood gone!

[Evad Nomenclature]

I bought some of those at on my first attempt at labeling pedals.
I'm pretty sure you didn't have to print inverse (My GF does the design work and she's sleeping so i can't ask her=)

All i can tell you is this...
Make sure you put a few coats of clear coat on the top and let it dry sufficiently.  My 3rd attempt came out the best... (to make it quick...)
I clear coated, threw the decal sheet in the paint baking oven for about 5-10 mins on about 160 degrees F (just to dry faster but make sure you don't melt the decals) I did this 3 times... might have been overkill, but it didn't run at all...  the first set I forgot to clear coat, obviously it ran and was nothing after 5 seconds in the water... 1 coat isn't sufficient... 2 might be... 3 definitely is.

Also, let it soak really well in the water before you apply.. make sure the decal comes off the paper almost on it's own, don't force it, just let it come right off.  The best luck I had was to use a tiny wet paintbrush to apply and get all the bubbles out... when you get it set it place well, let it sit for a while (maybe 20 mins or half an hour) and then clear coat it a couple of times...
I had some great success with that.  I bought laserjet ones now that i am getting ready to run in a couple of days, also that decal softener from smallbear, which I hope will make it set into the pedal even more.

[Ice-9]

I have used the inkjet waterslide with my epson r300 printer, never needed to clearcoat the decals before putting them in the water so i assume the epson ink isn't water based. (i use the cheap epson replacement cartridges)