Avery Sticker paper, an easy alternative to T-Shirt Transfers ...

[Alex C]

are you using the avery sticker paper or the avery sticker project paper?  is there a difference?

The link in Melanhead's original post is no longer working, but it led to the info page for the "sticker project paper," product #3383, which is what I have used as well.  
Here's a link that should work.

I see that Avery's site lists "white sticker paper,", product #53202.  I don't know if there's a difference between the two.  The info for the "sticker paper" states scrapbooking as its main application (and is in the "scrapbooking" sub-category), while the description for the "sticker project paper" mentions craft projects and decorations, so in my mind it sounds like the "project paper" might be a little more robust.  That's pure speculation though.

I guess I would recommend using the "project paper" if you can get it just because Mr. Melan and myself have had good results with it and we know it works.  Also, going by the prices listed on the Avery site, the "project paper" is cheaper, at $13.20 for 15 sheets compared to $6.41 for 5 sheets of the "sticker paper."

[rnfr]

the price is what made me wonder. you get what you pay for right? i would hope so at least. 


anyway, seems like a great way to do boxes.  thanks for the info!

[Kit Rae]

I am using the Avery t-shirt transfer paper for black t-shirts. It is a white plastic film that you can reposition easily. I have found that you barely have to heat it with an iron to make it bond, but once you clear coat it 10-12 times it is on there for good. Here one I just made. It still needs a few more coats of cleat to hide the edges of the transfer.




Here is my process.

1. Spray the outside of the enclosure and lid with a gray metal primer to help your paint stick. Let dry a few hours.

2. Spray your pedal color with a decent paint meant for metal. A color similar to the background color of your art will look best. Use glossy or semi-gloss satin, not flat. I do 5-6 even coats to get a good smooth surface. Be sure not to spray too close and avoid drips. Let paint dry an hour or so between coats. If you get a drip, let the paint dry and then sand the drip down with a 300 grit or finer sandpaper. Repaint to cover the sanded area.

Let paint completely dry, at least 24 hours.

3. Print your art out on your transfer paper with an inkjet printer. Be sure to use the t-shirt transfers meant for black or dark colored t-shirts. The clear ones for white t-shirts will only work if your pedal is painted white, or if you want the paint on your pedal to show through the art. Be warned though, the colors may be washed out if you use the regular transfers on anything other that white paint. I use Avery dark t-shirt transfers.

4. Cut the transfer print out right to the edge of the art. Don't worry about the holes for the knobs yet. Use a hobby knife and a ruler unless you are really good with scissors.

5. Peel the paper backing off the transfer. The actual transfer is a very thin plastic film. Position the transfer on the pedal and press down starting from one end to the other. Be sure a press out all air bubbles. You can use an iron to heat set the transfer to the enclosure, but it is not absolutely necessary, and you may risk melting the transfer. If you do it, use a low heat, put paper in between the transfer and iron, and iron no more than 10-15 seconds.

The colors will look like crap at this stage, but don't worry.


6. With a hobby knife or razor blade, cut out the holes in the top. If you can't tell where the holes are, press you fingers in the surface of the transfer to make a dimple over the holes. Cut just outside the hole area, no more that 0.5mm from the edge.

7. Spray the enclosure and lid with a good gloss or semi-gloss clear coat. I use high gloss furniture spray laquer. Almost all clear coats are going to act as a solvent to the transfer film due to the chemicals, so you may see a few bubbles appear in the transfer after the first coat. Don't panic! Spray about 10-15 coats, letting each dry about an 30 minutes in between. This should cover any bubbles and hide them. The more coats, the better. When done, let the whole thing completely dry at least 24 hours. The clear coat should deepen the colors and make everything look more vibrant.

I suggest you print a practice transfer and test doing it on something else first if you have never painted or done any thing like this. If you f it all up, just peel it off, sand it down and start over. I got it right on the first try.

[John Lyons]

That looks great!
Nice job and thanks for the tips.

John