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GGG amp projects

Started by drivenover, June 19, 2009, 01:24:43 PM

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drivenover

Hi folks,


I need some advice from someone familiar with the GGG amp projects.  I would like to build these projects but have some questions, mostly about the power supplies.

I have recently discovered the fun of building a couple of effects, then a Noisy Cricket2 amp from Beavis Audio, and a LilGem 2 from runoff groove.  Everything works great, thought he amps are not exactly high fidelity.  Now I want to move up, ultimately to build a 5E3 amp.

I am confused on the power req for the ggg amps:
- the LM383 amp says it is AC powered, but there is a provision for optional DC 12v.  This could just be a wall wart?  How much amperage would it have to have?
-the 2030 and 3886 amps call for 18v bipolar power.  I would like to understand this type of power better...is there a resource?  I have not found anything I understand.
-ggg also has power supply projects including the 18v bipolar, and a bipolar 'pump'.  Would the pump be powerful enough to feed the 3886 amp?  What size of wall wart would be required?  The 3886 is a 68 watt amp...pretty big.
-I suspect that it is far smarter to buy pcb's when available, than using a perf board.  Is this generally true?
-probing around this *excellent* forum, I discovered a chipamp.com kit for a 3886 amp.  this looks like the smart way to go to build a 3886 project (especially for someone like me!)  recommended?

Alot of the parts for these projects are not carried at SmallBear nor DIY.  Is there a recommended source for things like big caps and amp chips?



I have exhausted my local library of basic electronic books (one not-very-good book)  I am open to buy any highlyrecommended resource.  I did buy the Mims book they sell at Radio Shack...somewhat helpful.
I also got from RS the breadboard/project kit (also by Mims) that I am working through.

Another intended project of mine is a box to plug into the car lighter socket.  I want the box to deliver 9v to a little amp.  Mims' book says(at least to me) that you just need a resistor and 9v zener diode to do this.  Is it really that simple???  (man, that diode is tiny!) (p 103 if you happen to have that book)
I have also come across a LM317t Adj voltage reg and a 7809c 9v fixed regulator.  Would these offer better solutions?

This turned into a lot of questions, and for that I am sorry.  I am having tons of fun with this new-to-me hobby.  One of my problems in learning is actually being overwhelmed with great info that I cannot digest.
So, I really appreciate if someone could help me cut through some of the confusion.

Thanks!!
Mark


drivenover

I will decipher all of this and report suggestions back to those interested.

It may not be immediately tho.....but soon.

petemoore

I am confused on the power req for the ggg amps:
- the LM383 amp says it is AC powered, but there is a provision for optional DC 12v.  This could just be a wall wart?
  How much amperage would it have to have?
  AC amplifiers [guitar is AC] use DC power. Check the data sheets for the amperage requirements of the amplifier active component.
-the 2030 and 3886 amps call for 18v bipolar power.  I would like to understand this type of power better...is there a resource?  I have not found anything I understand.
    http://geofex.com/Article_Folders/Power-supplies/powersup.htm
  Best thing I ever did was hack my way through understanding that.
-ggg also has power supply projects including the 18v bipolar, and a bipolar 'pump'.  Would the pump be powerful enough to feed the 3886 amp?  What size of wall wart would be required?  The 3886 is a 68 watt amp...pretty big.
-I suspect that it is far smarter to buy pcb's when available, than using a perf board.  Is this generally true?

  The amp is like an addendum to the power supply, pretty sure charge pump will have a limited current supply, not a good choice...read the data sheet on Pump and Amp chips...compare !

Convention creates following, following creates convention.

petemoore

-probing around this *excellent* forum, I discovered a chipamp.com kit for a 3886 amp.  this looks like the smart way to go to build a 3886 project (especially for someone like me!)  recommended?
   YUPP, the PS, and the heatsinking, PCB...lotta messin' around the other way, looks like it when you're done probaby too, kit is a smart choice for a first-er.
Alot of the parts for these projects are not carried at SmallBear nor DIY.  Is there a recommended source for things like big caps and amp chips?
  Google: Electronics Supply, I like Mouser fine...there's plenty of others though.
  I have exhausted my local library of basic electronic books (one not-very-good book)  I am open to buy any highlyrecommended resource.  I did buy the Mims book they sell at Radio Shack...somewhat helpful.
I also got from RS the breadboard/project kit (also by Mims) that I am working through.




Convention creates following, following creates convention.

petemoore

Another intended project of mine is a box to plug into the car lighter socket.  I want the box to deliver 9v to a little amp.  Mims' book says(at least to me) that you just need a resistor and 9v zener diode to do this.  Is it really that simple???  (man, that diode is tiny!) (p 103 if you happen to have that book)
  Why not increase the headroom and simply connect it to 12vdc of car battery ?
  If you already have a Vreg. in, use it...make sure all your active and capacitor components are rated for a voltage >than the supply voltage you apply.
  I have also come across a LM317t Adj voltage reg and a 7809c 9v fixed regulator.  Would these offer better solutions?
 
  Recommended...unless they can't deliver the necessary current, they put out super solid 'DC'...no ripple, easy...some or more heat sinking may be necessary, YMMV, feed them DC of 2v more than what you need, they 'use' 2volts.
  Otherwise build a power supply that is more rugged and doesn't tend to dissipate heat..RG's page explains it most concisely and completely.
 
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

petemoore

  Sorry about all the multiple posts, I'd used the boxes here, and going below the bottom makes me blind with the print jumping wildly up and down, I like to see what I'm typing, that's the quick solution.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.