Dunlop era Dyna Comp repair dilemma

[AnalogPackrat]

My 1996 Dunlop "MXR" Dynacomp has a dead footswitch.  Unfortunately this is the one with everything mounted on one board and with the LED right above the switch.  The board is also double sided.  I'd like to repair it and, if possible, convert to true bypass.  What are my best options?  I guess I could gut it and build all-new innards, but if I can do something less time consuming and drastic I would prefer to go that way.  Any help/ideas appreciated.

A P

[R.G.]

I'd like to repair it and, if possible, convert to true bypass.  What are my best options? 

Repair it. Don't hack it up, make an external true bypass box.

Better yet, put a good buffered effect in front of it or put a buffer in it.

True bypass is not necessarily the best way to bypass.

[BDuguay]

Like most members I'm sure, I do most of my forumming(?) here at work and while I'm still able to access this site here, I'll offer up some advice too.
I've moodded your type of pedal for true bypass and, depending on the tools you have available, it may be easier to go that route. I say that because removing bypass switches that have been board mounted can be done, but can also be very tricky and potentially board damaging. I forget what kind of switch is stock on those pedals but, is it possible to dismantle the switch itself without removing it from the board? Sometimes they can be repaired.
B.

[analogmike]

You need to pull the switch off the board anyway, so you might as well true bypass it as that's the hard part.

try one of the small fujisoku 3PDT switches, it can fit under the board, and run wires up to the pads. You may have to cut the lugs off half way to make more clearance.

Good luck!

[AnalogPackrat]

Thanks for the replies, guys.  I haven't had any time this week to mess with it again.

R.G.--it's a Dunlop version, so repair with hacking is an option as far as I'm concerned.  It's not a collectors item or anything.  I do want true bypass because of the way I intend to order my pedals.  There are times when it will see my guitar output directly, so I can't always guarantee a buffer will be first.  Adding a buffer to it seems like more work than simply making it true bypass to me.  I'd also like to try out some of the various mods (switchable attack, treble boost, etc.) while I've got it on the bench.

B.D.--no shortage of tools here.  If I can't find a small switch I may have to remove a chunk of board where the current Carling DPDT switch lives.  I've cracked open switches before--thanks for reminding me.  I might be able to open it without desoldering.  It's got really wide solder lugs, so removing it from the board will not be easy.

A.M.--got a source for those Fujisoku switches?

Thanks again,
A P