Insulation with paint?

[WhenBoredomPeaks]

The project: Put a stripboard (9x36 holes), 5 pots, two footswitches, two audio jacks, led and a DC jack into a 1590B.

It is probably not impossible because the masterminds here managed to put much more stuff into a 1590B.

As you can see the PCB is just as "big" as the inner, longer, vertical wall off the Hammond enclosure.

If i put the PCB right next to the inner vertical wall, then i should mount the pots too close to the center of the case which would look silly.

If i put the pots into the right place and lay the stripboard upon them, so the components face me, then it won't left enough space on the sidewalls for a jack and a DC jack.

I mean the big, insulated, plastic jack:



I could use a smaller metal jack, i think i could put it in somehow. But it is not insulated. This kind of jack:




I'd spraypaint the pedal inside and outside after drilling, so the paint would cover the walls of the hole.

Will the paint work as insulation?

[jacobyjd]

not reliably

[Mike Burgundy]

Prod a DMM into a paintjob and see. Most of mine are somewhat conductive at least, so I'd say this is not a very safe bet.
You could use the non-insulated jack,just make sure it's wired with positive core (and adjust the connecting lead accordingly!!) and to be really safe use a separated supply to eliminate any groundhum issues. Works fine, I've used that often, with the DCjack's outer connection as central ground point. The jacks are also ground-connected to the case and wired internally, haven't had any loop issues, so I'd say try that and see! It might not be the best practice, but still.

hih

[JKowalski]

I think it's so unbelievably ridiculous, the way pedal power supplies are wired conventionally. Why on earth do they not put positive in the center, ground outside, as is the correct way to do it?

[WhenBoredomPeaks]

Prod a DMM into a paintjob and see. Most of mine are somewhat conductive at least, so I'd say this is not a very safe bet.
You could use the non-insulated jack,just make sure it's wired with positive core (and adjust the connecting lead accordingly!!) and to be really safe use a separated supply to eliminate any groundhum issues. Works fine, I've used that often, with the DC jack's outer connection as central ground point. The jacks are also ground-connected to the case and wired internally, haven't had any loop issues, so I'd say try that and see! It might not be the best practice, but still.

hih

I use only center negative power supplies.

Maybe i will cut the stripboard into two different pieces, because 30% of the circuit is just the power filtering and Mill bypass circuit.

The smaller piece would be between the footswitches on the front wall, and the bigger piece would be lying on the pots, so there will be place for the bigger jack hopefully.

I visualised it:



The small PCB between the footswitches is a power filter + millennium bypass circuit. The bigger PCB laying on the pots is the effect circuit itself.
The red lead is the positive, the blue is the ground.

Will the power wires flying all around will add any additional noise, hum?

[MikeH]

Those same 'big' power jacks also come in a variety that hes the nut on the outside, rather than inside.  Not as nice looking, but they will give you a lot more room on the inside.  Like, about a centimeters worth.

[ACS]

I've successfully used those metal DC jacks as centre-negative by drilling a larger hole (8mm from memory) and putting a rubber grommet in place.  Then you force the DC jack in to the grommet - it's a tight fit, so it's not going anywhere...  Works well, and have never had an issue.  Let me see if I can dig up a  pic...

[edit] just read your OP better... still probably won't help you with your space problem...

FWIW, you can kinda see what I mean in this pic...