PLEASE HELP with MXR Phase 45

[bshilkitus]

Hi,
I just bought a 1979 MXR Phase 45.  The switch has to be replaced and I am trying to replace myself.  The only problem, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I AM DOING!  Small Bear Electronics suggest I use a 3pdt switch for true bypass. 
Can somebody please tell me how to solder this thing up?  I am not an electronics guy and have never made a pedal.  The PCB has 6 wires coming from it. 
I don't know which one is the PCB input or output.  2 wires are attached to the pot (orange and grey).  I have not remove those.  There is a red and black wire, then there is a purple and yellow wire.  I have no idea how to hook these up to the jacks or the new switch.  Can someone help?  Very simple like?

Thanks, Bill

[petemoore]

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=156&Itemid=99999999
  Very simple like is for flashlights.
  To get through it for sure, have a DMM, a switch, and some time to read about the switch, then to necessarily test the connections to find a pole and throw so that it is oriented correctly, it is easier to start with study of a spst [opens/closes] then spdt [opens/closes the pole/throw while doing the opposite to the throw on the other side of the pole].
  Then the DPDT, two SPDT's sitting side by side, independant from one another except that they are simultaneously activated.
  3PDT is three SPDT's, three 'row's or 'columns' of spdt, this type of switch may need to be literally turned 1/4 turn to find a pole and throw that connect...looking through three lug eyelets  on a 3PDT = looking through a throw>pole>throw.
  Use the DMM to verify that a switch with pole/throw switches in it does what is expected before wiring it all up.
  Does the effect have a bypass/on indicator LED ?
  Map/mark etc. whatever you can [wire connects, marks on masking tape tagged wires may come in handy], use what is there to help study phase 45, switch / jack / circuit wiring before beginning with the soldering.

[bshilkitus]

HUH?  Can someone just tell me wherre to attached the wires?[/img]

[oldschoolanalog]

I would like to say this. With all due respect. This is a 30+ yr old effect. FWIW it does have a bit of vintage/historic value. Not to mention $ value.
If you have zero idea whats going on, please get somebody knowledgeable & experienced to do the job for you. Or at least walk you through it patiently.
That being said; if you must/insist on doing it yourself: study, study, study.
...and everything petemoore said.
Best of Luck!

[liquids]

I did mine....loved it, but it already had a hole (that was never round, mind you) drilled in the original bud box for an external power jack.  When I tried it in the store, the sound sold me well before I started DIY, and well before it was (or at least before I knew it was) a popular DIY project.   I heard it, thought it was very univibe-like against two univibe clones, and bought it with intention of putting it on the pedalboard.

Anyhow, true bypassing it and then re-housing it was one of my first projects.   But I'd recommend otherwise...I studied a lot....and had less to lose since mine had low vintage value due to the hack/mod condition I bought it in....

I don't know that a 3PDT switch can fit in that shallow box, by the way.   A carling DPDT that I can't remember the details of worked with a little bit of room to spare and little to no spacers on the threads (whole switch protruding out of the box).   And of course that is with no LED....then again, if you don't plan on rehousing it into something like a 125B and adding an LED (you can put jacks on top that way), you don't need a 3PDT for 'true bypass.'

In the end, I'd say better would be to build a buffer and put that before it, as a first project 'fix' for this. That will minimize if not completely eliminate any 'tone sucking' the pedal is doing.  Once you build that, and/or a beginner project like is found on the forum here or BYOC, you should have a fair estimate on your ability to debug, solder, etc to give it a go, if you are so inclined, or realize you are not and give it to someone else to do...

Better yet, get a MXR phase 45 kit from Tonepad, GGG, etc.  Cheaper, less risky, and hey, then you really DIY.  Once you have it working, sell the original bad boy for $$ and you come out with some money to spare.

[e178453]

I replaced a Phase 90 swithch with a drop in replacement from Dunlop.  They were very helpful over the phone.  They might just have one for your pedal.  I had previously replaced the switch on an MXR microamp with a small bear type 3PDT, involved cutting away the circuit board to make room and running jumpers. Real PITA.  Could probably have gotten one from Dunlop as well.

http://www.jimdunlop.com/index.php?page=support