ICs on perfboards

[MrSir]

Hi there

I'm starting on my first build wich is a DOD 250 clone of Tonepad

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=115

I'm doing it on a solderless perfboard.

What is the most efficient way to do the IC (741) ?

Should I maby buy a striped perfboard?

[jdub]

Personally, I prefer pad-per-hole perfboard like you can get from Radio Shack (or Radio Shaft, as I like to call it), since the pads provide anchor points to solder to- I think it makes for a neater & stronger circuit.  The R.S. perf is actually not that great- the pads can rip off if you overwork them- but it works for me. Perfboard with through-hole plating is really the best, but it's pricey and, for someone starting out, it can be hard(er) to remove a component if you mess up.  Plus I can't find it locally.

Whichever type you choose to use, I would recommend using a socket for the IC, especially if you're just starting soldering, so you don't fry the IC; also makes it easier to swap out different ICs.

Hope this helps.

[petemoore]

 For 8pin IC's I decided I had to have pad-per-hole perfboard [or PCB], and socket. I've burnt a IC's trying to solder wire/leads directly to them, it can be done, but the reduced troubles and increased reliability factor makes the copper pad perfboard and socket worth it.
  If the pads are prepared so they 'grab' solder, and quick heat to 1 pin at a time, no socket can work, putting IC pins into copper pads, quick like <2 seconds of soldering iron at a time, + a tad of cool solder.

[anchovie]

I've used solderless board with an IC before, but only in a time of desperation. It wasn't very neat - basically I put the IC in first, flipped the board over and put blobs of solder on the pins so it wouldn't fall out. Then when it came to connecting the leads of the other components, I melted the relevant blob and quickly got the other lead into the molten solder.

I use stripboard 90% of the time, but at least with pad-per-hole perfboard you can have all of the components anchored when it comes to doing the lead-bending that makes the connections.

[frequencycentral]

Yeah, ditch the solderless perf and get some pad-per-hole. Solderless is a real hassle for what you want to build. I wouldn't attempt it personally. Pad-per-hole is my idea of Heaven. I never understood why people use stripboard.

[jdub]

Amen to that, brother    Howzitgo...PerfRocksVeroSucks?

[frequencycentral]

Amen to that, brother    Howzitgo...PerfRocksVeroSucks?

My position re perf and vero is well documented.   Truth is, I've tried to do vero layouts for people and always find the limitations of the media frustrating in comparison to perf - I end up giving up. I have a really hard time decifering vero layouts when I've checked them over for other people. I guess it's just personal preference. Perf rocks for me because layouts can be so tight, you can even copy PCB layouts straight off. In fact, my last build was done exactly that way - I did a perf and a PCB layout in DIYLC and ended up perfing my build based on the PCB layout, DIYLC PCB layouts being so much easier to follow that DIYLC perf layouts. Having had this 'eurika' moment, that's how I'll be doing it in future.

[petemoore]

  Don't let me talk you into no socket, no perfboard IC builds, if you feel you absolutely must do it [like I did once], it can be done.
  Get a long enough component lead, assign a hole for IC pin 1, stick the wire in, then back through an adjacent hole, creating a loop you twist back on itself, 1 resistor 'twist-clamped in' like a coathanger.
 It takes 2 holes of course to create a loop with 1 resistor lead, or similar piece of solid core wire.
 Repeat for IC Pin2, and so on. Be sure to count the correct spaces for the other side [pins 5-8].
 Getting the IC past the 'socket wipers' you made from resistor leads isn't too bad if preshaped to go on the inside of the leads.
 Put the IC to an ice cube before each pin, [just kidding, why not] soldered quickly.
 Make sure to start with wires that like to 'take' solder, clean etc., hotter irons don't take as long to heat objects, especially if there's just a tad of solder to help transfer heat between metals, soldering done quick reduces the chip-body-silicon bake time.

[BRingoC]

Do you mean you are doing it on Solderless Breadboard? Rather than solderless perfboard?  If it's your first circuit try it on breadboard, less chance of getting frustrated for the first time because you can remove components so easy, you don't have to fret over having to unsolder parts from each other.  If you get it working on the breadboard, then worry about trying to affix it to another more permanent medium, ala perfboard or pcb.  If it's breadboard, you won't need sockets for anything.

[anchovie]

Do you mean you are doing it on Solderless Breadboard? Rather than solderless perfboard? 

I don't think that's the case, otherwise there wouldn't be any query over how to fit an IC (I'd hope!).

[MrSir]

Thanks for the great advice and discussion!

I bought a striped veroboard and a socket for the IC and plan on doing it via this neat design.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/doublenegativeuk/DOD_OVERDRIVE_250_VERO_001.gif

Any objections?

[powerslide]

if you ever have trouble soldering something and it doesn't wanna stick properly like you someone mentioned IC legs, you should always use some soldering paste before actual soldering. tin will flow and stick easily on the paste spread and you'll get strong connection and a nice, soldering bath-style solder.

some components (like potentiometer housing for example) have some sort of coating on it, soyou break the surface with a utility knife beforehand.

[Top Top]

I am no electronics wizard, but I never had a problem using ICs or sockets on solderless perf. I just put in the ic or socket and bend the legs a tiny amount so they have a snug fit and don't fall out if I turn it over.

Personally unless it is a super simple circuit, I like using sockets, though I don't always have them around.

These days I mostly build on stiff thin cardboard, which I really like as I can just print the layout, tape it to the cardboard, and poke holes for the components. Also it's free . I suppose you could also do the paper trick with perf. It makes the whole layout and connection thing much easier. I also like perf/cardboard for the fact that you can put any kind of layout on it. When learning electronics I never knew about stripboard and never got into it, though I will use a strip layout here and there if I can't find a verified perf/PCB one.

You probably wouldn't want to do the cardboard thing for any kind of commercial build though, despite the mojo that a fine cardboard will add to your sound