Any successful electrolysis etches?

[therecordingart]

Since buying my new place my wife is dead set against me using FCL anywhere even near our residence. It only took one spill....

Anyway, I've seen a few posts and done searches about the electrolysis method, but I have my doubts on its effectiveness. Has anyone had success with it? Do you have any pictures of etches that you've done using this method?

[differo]

I'm also eager to hear if anyone did this with success, I'll hoever try this soon, well as soon as I get the chance (time).

[MarcoMike]

I'd try with copper chloride.... works kind of the same, just slower... electrolytic etching deserves electrical contact to all the copper you want to etch... kind of hard sometimes!

and CuCl2 it looks different enough from FeCl3 so your wife won't consider it a threat.... at least for a while...

[G. Hoffman]

I'd try with copper chloride.... works kind of the same, just slower... electrolytic etching deserves electrical contact to all the copper you want to etch... kind of hard sometimes!

and CuCl2 it looks different enough from FeCl3 so your wife won't consider it a threat.... at least for a while...

Yeah, it won't stain your clothes or couch, or anything - it will just eat holes in them!

The big problem, as I understand it, with oxidizers like CuCl₂ is that they have a very short shelf life once they've been mixed.  However, I'm also given to understand that you can revitalize them with either a fish tank blubber, or the addition of some hydrogen peroxide.  Now, I've never tried any of the oxidizing etchants, so I can't attest to any of this personally, but it might be worth a try.  Just remember to add the acid to the H₂O₂, not the other way around.  And maybe you should do it when your wife is on a vacation!


Gabriel

[differo]

I don't know about the original poster, but I was thinking try the 'salt' method discussed ages ago on this forum. Seems not to be popular as there aren't many threads/post about it. But since it uses NO hazardous chemicals and is rather cheap it's definitely wort a try.

[KazooMan]

I got tired of the ferric chloride mess (and the nasty aroma) and I am actually a chemist!  I switched to the sodium persulfate oxidant with great results.  Small Bear sells it for shipping to US only.  Many other suppliers.  The persulfate tends to be slower than the FeCl3 so I warm the solution.  I mix it in one of those disposable plastic food storage containers with the snap on lid.  I use hot water from the tap and put some hot water in the sink and let the tub float around.  I check the progress and refresh the water in the tub as needed to keep everything warm. 

[MarcoMike]

hey, cool! I am a chemist too... (everyone tells me it's weird doing this kind of diy electronics being a chemist...)

Mr Hoffman, I think these solutions actually can survive for ages without loosing oxidizing power...

[differo]

Kazoo, it seems to me that you mean etching PCBs, does that work on enclosures too?

[John Lyons]

The electro method does not work on PCBs because once the copper is etched through around the electrode
there is no electrical contact to complete further etching. As oppsosed to etching something of solid metal where
you have continuous metal to metal contact and you are not etching through to a non metal substrate.
Make sense?

John

[KazooMan]

Yes, I was referring to PCBs for the persulfate.  It works great.

You don't actually need the FeCl3 to etch aluminum.  Strong acid is enough.  Chemistry lab concentrated hydrochloric acid is plenty strong enough.  It is about 40% HCl.  You can find "muriatic acid" for cleaning concrete.  It runs from about 30 - 40% HCl.  Note that this stuff can cause severe burns and the fumes can cause real problems also.  You must use it with good ventilation (outdoors), eye protection, and gloves.  A chemist would use the stuff in a "fume hood" that would protect them from the fumes. 

Be VERY careful if you choose to try this.

[G. Hoffman]

Mr Hoffman, I think these solutions actually can survive for ages without loosing oxidizing power...

Just going by what the manufacturers say, which is usually a 30 day shelf life.  I'm very happy with Ferric Chloride, so I have no desire to change.  Also, while electronics is not my job, I make things for a living, and working fast is a big deal for me.  Clean, yes, precise, yes, but fast too.  So, the slower oxidizers just don't appeal to me.


Gabriel

[differo]

Breaking news, I just tried the electrolysis yesterday and it works! Works like a charm, I've built a simple rig consisting of wall wart (1A up to 12V regulated) some wires, bolts, a fan, plastic tray salt and water. That's IT. All you need. I took a sheet of aluminum ( like ones you could use to bend your self to make an enclosure) painted it black with some car paint (spray can) on both sides. I just gently 'scratched out' my name (symbolically heh) and connected everything according the tutorial found on this forum (instructables tutorial!) and let it etch! bubbles came from the bolts as expected, I waited for maybe 10 minutes, occasionally checking the process (actually hard to see the progress..) and when I thought that it was enough I wiped the paint with some acetone and voila! my name etched  in the aluminum without any dangerous acids with zero bucks invested! thats' diy in it's pure form )   
Anyways, tonight when I get home from work, I'll try it with an enclosure this time, I need to figure out which effect to box.. hmmmm