I am glad I can etch my own boards finally,what you need to etch at home

[Brymus]

I just started etching my own boards (Last week)and am thrilled at the outcome thus far.
It is easier than I thought it would be...
It is so much faster to solder up a PCB vs perf.
I also plan to start doing my own layouts whenever I can (I still dont have the savy for complex ones)
This would be much more DIY than using posted transfers off the web.
Last week I did the Gausmarkov Dr Boogie and it works perfectly,I slightly modified the GGG ITS8 layout and its the quietest TS clone I have made to date.The ROG Omega is alot quieter on PCB than my perf version.
I also have several more I etched while I was at it,just havent stuffed em yet.
Also I tinned all my boards in one batch using tinnit and that worked super awesome.
They all have nice shiny tinned traces that take soldering easier than un tinned ones.

BUT the entire etching/PCB making process is very messy if you arent careful.

What you need:
Small gauge solder,I have the thick stuff from RS and I had problems getting big globs and so I started using really thin gauge silver solder and it works way,way better.
You will want pyrex and plastic jugs ,I also use the plastic tubs lunch meat comes in,for storing and etching your PCBs
Rubber or latex gloves.
I used an old pot with some water in it to heat the etchant in its pyrex on the stove,as to speed up the procces
Tinnit has to be 120-140 f to work so I used the same procces (another pyrex container)
You need a drill press and small wire gauge bits,
I used a dremmel and dremmel press,with re-sharpened bits from drill bit city,works very good.
Blank copper clad,E-Bay (ABC fab) is the best place I found for getting it at decent prices.
A hacksaw for cutting the copper clad,a vise or clamps (I clamp mine with a piece of wood and wood clamps to my workbench) to hold it while cutting.
A good mask or respirator when working with cutting or drilling the copper clad.
A shop vac to clean up the dust it makes.
I also now vac after everycut or drilled board to keep that nasty stuff from spreading around.
A file/sandpaper for finishing the cut edges,so the surface is flat.
Acetone,alcohol,dish soap,scrubber pad,and I use Tarnex as well for cleaning the copper surface at different stages of the process.
A laser printer,I bought a new Samsung at Office Max for 50$ and it works beautifully ( I researched and the Samsung got the best reviews all around for toner transfer )
Something to transfer the toner with.
PNP blue is easier and gives excellent results (I would use it exclusivly if it wasnt so pricey)but I have also tried magazine paper and works good too,just alot more work soaking and brushing off the paper.Also the toner seems to flatten and spread out more using magazine paper at least for me it did.I will try photo paper soon.
And also a clean,smooth iron.
NEW TIP HERE
Also plastic tongs for removing the boards from etchant,BUT after my son took and lost mine,I had to improvise...
Plastic zip ties are superb for handling the boards while etching,you just zip enough you can slide it out easy but it wont fall out and you have a nice long handle on the board ,and you can re-use them too.

Yeah its alot of stuff to get,but I am glad I did.
Etching my own boards feels amazing,like the first working circuit I made, its that kind of feeling.
sorry for such a long post I hope it was helpful.

What was most helpful to me was:
Reading John Lyons tutorial at Basic Audio,and the one at Small Bear
Then watching a couple of videos on YouTube,
and asking questions here of course.

SO in closing a big THANK YOU to all who have answered my questions and helped me get this far,you guys are the best!!!
And some pics.

[petemoore]

  It's about time I etched a board..
  Considering a lazer jet printer !
   these inksters have earned a 4 for 4 failure rating, the ink is redicula-spensive too.
 All I do all day is gnhuchk with these failed printers...I just wanna answer: "WHADDABOUT THAT ONE?" [then utilize sledgehammer.
 

[solderman]

Hi
Nice work man. You have this going good.
If you are serious about doing your own layouts I would suggest that you started with DIY-layout creator (link on top of this forum) and then move on to DIP trace. If you want to do complicated high density PCB:s the fotoresist method (Expose with UV light develop and etch) is the safest way to go for good results.
This I done with DIP Trace and fotoresist.

[Brymus]

Hey Pete, yeah the ink jet ink is ridicules.It starts drying the minute you install it,lasts only about 6 months unless you print alot then its even more expensive.
Nice plus's to having a Laser printer is (A) the toner is powder and never dries (B) I print alot of text and schematics and monochrome is fine for both,so I use the inkjet less. (C) I can do toner transfer etching (D) I can do laser decals which are supposed to be more durable than inkjet decals (E) My Samsung was 50$ brand new and works amazing thus far.

[Brymus]

Hi
Nice work man. You have this going good.
If you are serious about doing your own layouts I would suggest that you started with DIY-layout creator (link on top of this forum) and then move on to DIP trace. If you want to do complicated high density PCB:s the fotoresist method (Expose with UV light develop and etch) is the safest way to go for good results.
This I done with DIP Trace and fotoresist.

Thanks Solderman,your stuff is really nice,and compact like crazy,I downloaded the free info from your site months ago but am not quite ready to try such compact designs.You have a great site for DIY'ers to find schematics and layouts.
I will look into the dip trace software.
That foto resist etched board looks incredible,even a spot for the 3PDT.I am guessing all in a 1590 B too ,right?

[solderman]

^Thanks
Yes its a 1590A, ROG tri Vibe if i remember correct. Struggle on and you will get there.