Small Clone doesn't working good!!! It's beating!!! 0_0

[Xide88]

Hello, everyone, please help!!!  

I have built tonepad's small clone and when i power on it...it produce beating sound!  
The sound of my guitar was hearing too, but this sound...i use electrolit 2.2uf instead of 2.2uf tantalum - can it be the reason?

Another problem that i can't tune it right  

I play the guitar and change values of trim, but i can hear only weak chorus!((

I have read http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=83118.0
but there isn't problem with beating sound!

Q1 2N5087
C=0
B=3,07
E=3,77

Q2 2N5088
C=8,85
B=7,25
E=7,58

Q3 2N5088
C=8,86
B=8,75
E=8,20

LM358
1=1-2,60
2=4,16
3=3,83
4=0
5=1,3-3,3
6=2,08
7=0-7,64
8=8,87

4558
1=4,51
2=0
3=3,61
4=0
5=4,41
6=4,55
7=3,93
8=8,87

MN3007
1=8,20-8,35
2=6,51-6,90
3=4,22
4=4,82-5,43
5=4,83-5,43
6=6,48-6,84
7=7,20-7,48
8=7,20-7,48

CD4047
1=7,90-8,04
2=5,04-5,68
3=0-7,60
4=8,20-8,35
5=8,20-8,35
6=8,20-8,35
7=4,80-5,36
8=4,84-5,40
9=4,86-5,34
10=6,50-6,82
11=6,50-6,82
12=4,86-5,44
13=7,92-8,06
14=8,20-8,35

D1
IN 3,80
OUT 4,33

D2
IN 7,48-7,64
OUT 5,03-5,64

I am very surprised with this values!!! are they normal? i am afraid that not 

[Xide88]

HELP!!! 

[MikeH]

I've never built this so I can't help much but 2 things: A 2.2uf tantalum is fine, and your Q1 voltages look suspect.  I'd check the orientation/pinout on Q1.

[Xide88]

Thank's for an advice, but i try it and it is still beating 

[jkokura]

The beating you're hearing is likely the LFO - you're not supposed to hear it like that, but it's a good thing that it's working at least, because without it you don't get any kind of Chorus sound!

What I would be looking at doing is getting yourself an Audio probe - do a search and you'll learn how to set one up. Once you have that, begin at the input and start following the signal path (blue traces on the tonepad pdf) to find where the problem is. If it stops in front of a transistor, usually that means the Transistor is backwards. If it stops after a Resistor and before a cap or another resistor or an IC, generally that means there's a cold solder joint.

I'm not sure if there's a problem with your numbers. Using an Electrolytic cap shouldn't be a problem for you, but if you've mixed up any other parts, or have anything backwards, that will be a problem for you.

Really check out the pinouts on all your Transistors, and check and recheck your parts, and then check and recheck your wiring. Hopefully you'll find the problem.

I had a problem when I built mine too - but I got it to work, so I'm sure you can too!

Jacob

[Xide88]

Yap, working LFO is really happiness 

Audio probe - you mean testing all traces for the voltage and connections? ok, i will do that!

Thanks a lot for an advice!!! 

[jkokura]

Yap, working LFO is really happiness 

Audio probe - you mean testing all traces for the voltage and connections? ok, i will do that!

Thanks a lot for an advice!!! 

Nope, you're thinking of a Meter. DMM's are used for checking voltage and connections. That's good to do too, but will be less helpful than using an Audio Probe. Search for Audio Probe to learn more - but essentially they work by checking the 'audio' signal at any given point of your circuit. That way you can tell where things are getting broken down...

Jacob

[Rockmusikeren]

Xide88, did you solve the problem?
I just build the small clone myself and have the exact same problem.
Tryed to swap the 3007, but it's still the same, it's strange why it is producing this beating sound, if I turn
the rate pot clockwise it's beating faster and the beating sound seams to almost disapear when turned all
the way up. Also the voltage on Q1 seams to change when ajusting the 100k trim pot, so your Q1 is not the problem.