Pcb for zw44

[mavroeida]

Hello guys!
This is my first post on the forum.

I have made a pcb layout for the mxr zw-44 using Torchy's schematic:
http://aronnelson.com/gallery/album28/Wylde_Schematic2?full=1

the parts are designed according to his schematic (with the exception of D4 instead of D5). I haven't built it yet, so if you check it out for mistakes I would be glad. Here are the pictures

[Cardboard Tube Samurai]

If this thing works, I am going to be a happy lad indeed!

[mavroeida]

I just wanted to add that the led circuit is not included

[mavroeida]

Finally I built it and it works just fine but the pcb layout was wrong

So, i give you the right one:

[Cardboard Tube Samurai]

*adds to 'things-to-do' list*

[solarplexus]

What a coincidence.... I just had a zw44 to repair yesterday... it was only the battery clip...

I played with it for a while and this things sounds REALLY good by itself... would probably sound great as a booster!

Anyways... I was really impressed.

Matt

[mavroeida]

Anyway , if you have printed the wrong PCB(the old one) you can make the following changes:

• disconnect the base(2nd pin) of Q1 from the R12-C8-R13 junction
• connect the base of Q1 with the C10-R11-R12 junction

I have noticed that there is a problem with the link to Torchy's schematic so here it is:
http://www.geocities.com/hmeffects/Wylde_Schematic_001.jpg

You may have already noticed, but this is not the actual size of the PCB...
You will have to figure it out on your own.
It's a bit big but it fits in a 11,5cm x 6,5cm aluminum box that I'm us

this things sounds REALLY good by itself... would probably sound great as a booster!

Indeed!

[rama claproth]

If you have an SD1 boss pedal, you can convert it into MXR ZW44 specs!

1. Remove one leg of the resistor 33K (R5) that goes with 4K7 (R6) and connect to the diode's leg (D1) that goes to pin 7 at the opamp chip. Remove yellow wire # 4 at the PCB and also remove red wire # 2. Connect yellow wire at # 2, # 4 stays EMPTY. Connect red wire to where the 33K resistor's leg USED to stay that connects with the resistor 4K7 at R6, now this automatically goes to the opamp at pin 6.

2. Replace C4 with a 0.047uF capacitor.

3. Replace C5 with a 0.047uF capacitor.

4. Replace R3 with a 22K resistor.

5. Replace C7 with a 3.3uF capacitor.

6. Remove Q6, R15, R16, R17, and C10. These NO NEED jumpers. The white wire # 12 at the PCB must be removed and has to be connected into the hole where the base pin of Q6 used to stay.

7. Remove brown wire # 1 at the PCB and connect into ground.

8. Change Q5 with MPSA14 transistor. This is OPTIONAL.

DONE!

[The Tone God]

rama claproth: You do not need to dig up all these old ZW threads to post the same information in all of them. Once is enough.

Thanks for the contribution and welcome to the forum.

Andrew

[rama claproth]

alright andrew, i just checked these other threads and they are in the same topic. just wanna help and share that's it. i'll follow your advice bro..

[The Tone God]

No problem. Just letting you know. Thanks for the information BTW. I'm sure many will enjoy it.

Andrew

[rama claproth]

If you have an SD1 boss pedal, you can convert it into MXR ZW44 specs!

1. Remove one leg of the resistor 33K (R5) that goes with 4K7 (R6) and connect to the diode's leg (D1) that goes to pin 7 at the opamp chip. Remove yellow wire # 4 at the PCB and also remove red wire # 2. Connect yellow wire at # 2, # 4 stays EMPTY. Connect red wire to where the 33K resistor's leg USED to stay that connects with the resistor 4K7 at R6, now this automatically goes to the opamp at pin 6.

2. Replace C4 with a 0.047uF capacitor.

3. Replace C5 with a 0.047uF capacitor.

4. Replace R3 with a 22K resistor.

5. Replace C7 with a 3.3uF capacitor.

6. Remove Q6, R15, R16, R17, and C10. These NO NEED jumpers. The white wire # 12 at the PCB must be removed and has to be connected into the hole where the base pin of Q6 used to stay.

7. Remove brown wire # 1 at the PCB and connect into ground.

8. Change Q5 with MPSA14 transistor. This is OPTIONAL.

DONE!

oops, too sloppy here, boss have no true bypass system....here's the correct move:

SD1 CONVERT INTO MXR ZAKK WYLDE ZW44

1. Remove one leg of the resistor 33K (R5) that goes with 4K7 (R6) and connect to the diode's leg (D4) that goes to pin 7 at the opamp chip. Remove yellow wire # 4 at the PCB and also remove red wire # 2. Connect yellow wire at # 2, # 4 stays EMPTY. Connect red wire to where the 33K resistor's leg USED to stay that connects with the resistor 4K7 at R6, now this automatically goes to the opamp at pin 6.

2. Replace C4 with a 0.047uF capacitor.

3. Replace C5 with a 0.047uF capacitor.

4. Replace R3 with a 22K resistor.

5. Replace C7 with a 3.3uF capacitor.

6. Remove Q6, R15, R16, R17, R12, C8, and C10. These NO NEED jumpers. The white wire # 12 at the PCB must be removed and has to be connected into the hole of C8 where the hole connects with R14.

7. Change Q5 with MPSA14 transistor. This is OPTIONAL.

DONE!

[askwho69]

If you love Zaak tone.. Zakk uses SD1 before right? or am i wrong?

[askwho69]

DEAD LINKS

[anchovie]

The thread is from 2007.

[askwho69]

HAHAHAHA!! didnt realized! my GOSH! 4 years! hahah