MXR Hardwired '74 Phase 90 Reissue Problem!!Need Pics!!

Started by soupbone, October 28, 2010, 06:28:08 AM

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soupbone

I made my "MXR Hardwired '74 Phase 90 Reissue" True Bypass with 3pdt switch,led,and DC Jack with filter.I sent Jack Orman a picture,and he said everything looked wired correctly,but when i engage the pedal the led lights up,but no phasing effect. ???Does anyone have any pics of the inside of a un-modded one?(I made a mistake of not taking pictures before i wired it up :icon_idea:.)I mainly need pics of the inside where the jacks are.Help!! I'm losing my mind trying to figure out why this is not working!!

petemoore

I mainly need pics of the inside where the jacks are.
  Take a deep breath, step back, enjoy a favorite other thing to occupy some mind time, assume the project may require much more of it to begin cooperating.
  Sometimes pics help.
  She's made everything follow her rules, the only way she works is when she's shown what to do, this requires understanding what this circuit asks of her laws, and why they are obeying but not working for you.
  Eternally unforgiving in this complex' way, very much like water, it flows or it's uphill.
Hopefully the debugging sticky works better for you, I got error message, try linking to it [top of forum page] and see if it comes up.
  Meanwhile, link to schematic, operating voltage, whether the bypass works?
 
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

petemoore

  Somtimes it takes a while after comparing pics to get a working one.
  I should have mentioned the deep breath and cup of hot something first though.
  Meanwhile, try the debugging link to see if it works, I got error message.
  Following mother natures rules, [which RG has pretty well outlined, {at least what we need to know now], is much easier when armed with some knowledge, pic information may prove a fix or be partial/unreliable.
  Information such as circuit supply voltage etc. tells us critical information about what to expect.
  Those switches made out of stereo jack R/S + Mono Plug Sleeve, tip assigned to signal path, also the DC switching jack/plug arrangements add complexity to the fact it could be a switch which required orientation [1/4 turn] prior to wiring assignments.
  Following signal and power paths is recommended.
  Study of 3pdt with DMM and online true bypass reads/diagrams recommended for 3pdt true bypass applications.
  Same goes for the input jack-plug switchings.
  Somehow enough power is lighting the independant from audio LED circuit through the switch, increasing the chances...without schematic we don't know which true bypass swichting wiring assingment your'e using.
  More reads, hot liquids and rest recommended. A less frustrating yet mentally challenging effort such as guitar playing, excersize and reading [hopefully the debugging info is soon to be availed] is recommended, focus through the pain, then sleep...this alone often makes problems magically appear..identified, they can then be solved.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

sjaltenb

if you are getting tone when it is engaged, and you are sure that it is actually engaged, not bypassed, but no phasing, it could be the Pot is not wired or came loose.

This happened to me when i did i re-housed mine

aflynt

This may sound stupid but it happened to me last week when modding my Phase 90 with a univbe/phase switch. I also got sound but no phase. I then realized that I had jogged the internal trimpot into a position that was resulting in no phase effect.

If you haven't yet, try turning the pot (remember where it was before). It's worth a shot.

-Aaron

soupbone

Good Ideas!I'll have to try turning the trimmer and see what happens.Thanks everyone for the info!

soupbone

Turned the trimmer.Still got nothing :icon_question:I'm stummped at this point.

Joe Hart

Quote from: soupbone on October 28, 2010, 06:28:08 AM
I sent Jack Orman a picture

Just a thought... why don't you post pictures of it here for us to see? I mean, someone may be able to help you with a picture of theirs, but they would have to get their camera, take their pedal out of their pedal board, take the back cover off, possibly pull the board out, take pictures, reassemble everything, then post the pictures on line. You've done all that and just need to post a link to them here. It may get you an answer faster.
-Joe Hart

soupbone


Joe Hart

I post them on a separate website, then link to the images. There may be a different way, but that's what I do. Some people that don't have a webserver or something similar, post them to a site like Flicker or whatnot. I suppose you could even post them on Facebook or MySpace and just link to them.
-Joe Hart

zombiwoof


soupbone

I had a friend of mine look at it,and he said everything was wired correctly.It's got to be something on the pcb.Either a diode or transistor got fried,or something like that.I called Dunlop for the schematic,but they wouldn't give it to me because I'm not a dealer. :icon_sad:


soupbone


zombiwoof

Quote from: soupbone on October 31, 2010, 06:27:25 AM
I had a friend of mine look at it,and he said everything was wired correctly.It's got to be something on the pcb.Either a diode or transistor got fried,or something like that.I called Dunlop for the schematic,but they wouldn't give it to me because I'm not a dealer. :icon_sad:

Yeah, Dunlop won't give out schematics, they pressure you to send the pedal to them to be repaired (for a price).  They wouldn't even tell me what a trimpot in one of their pedals (a discontinued one) does, they kept urging me to send it to them to be adjusted.  I thought that was ridiculous, they said I could damage the pedal by changing the trimpot setting (it's the bias for one of the transistors).  They used to be a lot more helpful with this stuff, but these days they are more concerned with making money from this kind of thing.

Al