Using Hammer Finish Paints

[peps1]

Hey guys and girls, Want to user some hammer finish paints (Plastikote).

Anything different to using normal paint regards, priming, baking, decal and lacquer?

[Quackzed]

from my memory, i think you're fine, rustoleum hammered finish spraypaint is pretty easy to use, will paint over rust, has good adhesion etc...
only thing i can think of is in the case of decals  due to the 'bumpy' texture of the final finish it may make removing 'bubbles' difficult . think of putting a decal on a golfball, all the dimples would prevent you being able to get it in contact with the whole surface of the ball...
hammered pain isnt at all deeply dimpled as a golfball, but to a lesser extent, may cause the same issues.
i seem to remember laying a few 'thick' coats cteated a more textured surface, where many thin mist coats let to dry a bit in between coats created less intense texturing, may be better if you plan on using  decals...
i believe john lyons may have done a write up on his method, as he did some really nice stuff with hammerred paint.

[therecordingart]

from my memory, i think you're fine, rustoleum hammered finish spraypaint is pretty easy to use, will paint over rust, has good adhesion etc...
only thing i can think of is in the case of decals  due to the 'bumpy' texture of the final finish it may make removing 'bubbles' difficult . think of putting a decal on a golfball, all the dimples would prevent you being able to get it in contact with the whole surface of the ball...
hammered pain isnt at all deeply dimpled as a golfball, but to a lesser extent, may cause the same issues.
i seem to remember laying a few 'thick' coats cteated a more textured surface, where many thin mist coats let to dry a bit in between coats created less intense texturing, may be better if you plan on using  decals...
i believe john lyons may have done a write up on his method, as he did some really nice stuff with hammerred paint.

Couldn't you shoot a few coats of clear over the hammer finish to even things out before putting down labels or would that ruin the effect?

[Quackzed]

sure, but youre talking 5 or 6 coats, sanding flatish, then repeat 2 or 3 times to get to flat...thats alot of sanding as well as waiting and alot of potential for snafu...with a very thick clear i suppose its less so, but still a bit of a pita.
might just be easier to use thin 'line' ish decals and let them follow the hills and valleys as opposed to flat wide decals that may or may not stretch into the hills and valleys...

[therecordingart]

sure, but youre talking 5 or 6 coats, sanding flatish, then repeat 2 or 3 times to get to flat...thats alot of sanding as well as waiting and alot of potential for snafu...with a very thick clear i suppose its less so, but still a bit of a pita.
might just be easier to use thin 'line' ish decals and let them follow the hills and valleys as opposed to flat wide decals that may or may not stretch into the hills and valleys...

True. You could always use a vinegar solution to soften the decals (the ones Small Bear sells) so get them conforming to the valleys better.

[Ronsonic]

Only things different with the hammer tone is to lay it on thick-ish for the effect. Warming the can in hot water helps. Shake thoroughly.