Bicolor LED not working

[spargo]

I just built two of the exact same pedal.  In it, I have a DPDT On-Off-On switch that switches between different diodes.  As an indicator, one of the poles switches a 3-leg bicolor led.  I have put a resistor from +9v to the center lug of one pole.  One the LED I have grounded the middle pin and attached the outer pins to the remaining sides of the pole on the switch.

The LED on one pedal works perfectly (again, they are identical), but does not work on the other.  I swapped out the LED with a new one but no change.  There appear to be no crossed connections.

When switched in the center off position as well as position 1, 9v is being delivered to the proper leg of the LED and center is grounded.  When switched in the second position, about 4.5v is being sent to the other leg of the LED but it doesn't light in either position.  Any ideas what's wrong?

[blooze_man]

All of the bi-color LEDs I've used have a common cathode and two anodes. try connecting your positive power to the outside lugs and the center lug to ground.

Edit: Apparently I really need to read more carefully...

[spargo]

Any other ideas, I'm still having no luck with this one.  Because the voltage appears to be hitting the LED, it seems like the switch is functioning just fine.

[blooze_man]

The only thing that comes to my mind is that either the switch is broken or the LED is broken. I would test them both and look really really carefully at both your builds to see if anything at all is different.

[spargo]

I can't really look at the working one anymore as I've given it to a friend.  I test the switch by using the continuity setting on my multimeter.  It appears to be working in all positions.  And as I've mentioned, I've replaced the LED to no avail which is why I'm so confused.

[petemoore]

   I always use adequate limiting resistor [4k7 for 9v] for a pre-test, battery->Resistor>cathode/anode>battery+ is one way that works.
 When the LED lights, note which leg of the LED marks the pole of the battery that lights it [ie the led-lead the resistor is attached to marks the polarity]...in this it it's known that an Led cathode with the resistor on it, connected to Negative battery pole, does light the LED, then it's just a matter of allowing for both the + and - battery to have a trace/wire, so - gets to the resistor end and remaining LED lead sees +.
  Seems like 1 current limiting resistor might do it on the cathode [if the switch has 'one or other led' wiring assignments], individual resistors for each anode [or an additional R fed to cathode to DIM the brighter of the two LED's] would of course afford individual bright-adjust.