A little help with a Neovibe?

[skrunk]

sweet, I got it wired up outside the box and it looks like everything is working ok

right now the grounds are wired kinda randomly, gonna use true bypass with a 3PDT with LED using GGG grounded input wiring diagram:

dc jack ground to L and to ground on 3PDT switch
input jack sleeve to B and to volume lug 1 (not using insulated jacks so they're in contact with box)

I might just use the [] pad (near K and J) to connect to the ground on the 3PDT
and wire volume lug 1 to the input sleeve
unless there's a better way?
I'm kinda winging here with regards the grounds!

also is there any way I could blow the bulb by turning the lamp bias too high?
I'm using the 12v/40ma bulb from smallbear
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=716
I'm also using a TIP110 for the driver transistor.

I'm using a 250R trimpot in there and I've set it to around 200R in order to get some effect when the speed pot is at min.
any less at the trimmer and the effect is lost when the speed pot is at min.
its flashing quite brightly at the peaks when the speed is at max.

so glad I've got this far without any debugging, I'd hate to balls it now!
thanks for everyone's help btw.

[R.G.]

sweet, I got it wired up outside the box and it looks like everything is working ok

Good work!

right now the grounds are wired kinda randomly, gonna use true bypass with a 3PDT with LED using GGG grounded input wiring diagram:
dc jack ground to L and to ground on 3PDT switch input jack sleeve to B and to volume lug 1 (not using insulated jacks so they're in contact with box)

I might just use the [] pad (near K and J) to connect to the ground on the 3PDT and wire volume lug 1 to the input sleeve unless there's a better way? I'm kinda winging here with regards the grounds!

One really good way to wire the grounds is like the wiring diagram here: http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/univibe/vibeupdate.pdf

also is there any way I could blow the bulb by turning the lamp bias too high?
I'm using the 12v/40ma bulb from smallbear
I'm also using a TIP110 for the driver transistor.

Yes. You have more than its design voltage available (15 vs 12V) and a driver that can pull amperes. However, I think it's unlikely, if possible.

so glad I've got this far without any debugging, I'd hate to balls it now!

The nice thing about it working is that if you do make it quit now, it was the last thing you did that made it quit, so fixing it is easier.

[Davefx]

What I wanted in a univibe clone was to nail the Hendrix throb... I couldn't get it with the Neo stock..  I will emphasize the bulb is important in my own findings..  The 12v 40ma definitely had the sound closer..  This is the sound of my vibe now....  With a few mods... Done through a Si FF, a DC30 clone, and a strat..  Forgive the crappy playing, i get red light jitters but the throb and sweep are the closest I've been able to get.. 

https://www.viva-analog.com/wp-content/uploads/Starspgl.mp3

[Jaicen_solo]

I think the bulb is very important in nailing the correct throb from a vibe. I just built a ckone myself using the GG RTS PCB, and I couldn't get the sound right using various locally sourced bulbs. I had a couple of 12v/60mA bulbs, which should have worked, but they just didn't have 'that sound'. I plugged in the 12v/40mA Smallbear bulb, and instantly got what I was looking for. I also swapped out the LDR's for SB's NSL's afterwards, which further improved the intensity. I think they're faster than the ones I had in before.
I have a theory that the bulbs with the straight element seem to have a heavier thermal constant. The SB bulb I had seems to respond much more fluidly, as if it has a better sensitivity. 

[jasperoosthoek]

Forgive the crappy playing, i get red light jitters but the throb and sweep are the closest I've been able to get.. 

No need to forgive yourself, you nailed the vibe sound . The biggest difference in how the vibe sounds is IMO the old 60s recording equipment of the original. Yours is more trebly and not as warm as the original. Just like how my recordings sound...

[manson]

What I wanted in a univibe clone was to nail the Hendrix throb... I couldn't get it with the Neo stock..  I will emphasize the bulb is important in my own findings..  The 12v 40ma definitely had the sound closer..  This is the sound of my vibe now....  With a few mods... Done through a Si FF, a DC30 clone, and a strat..  Forgive the crappy playing, i get red light jitters but the throb and sweep are the closest I've been able to get.. 

https://www.viva-analog.com/wp-content/uploads/Starspgl.mp3

Sounds good, my neo doesn't quite nail that. What mods did you do to make it sound like that?

[Davefx]

Yours is more trebly and not as warm as the original. Just like how my recordings sound...

LOL yeah I used the Windows Sound Recorder..  I'm not a great recording guy!

Sounds good, my neo doesn't quite nail that. What mods did you do to make it sound like that?

Number 1, I increased the op voltage to 24v.. Just replaced the 15v reg with a 24v..  That's what the audio circuitry is running at... With the 24v 200ma adapter I'm using, the LFO is running at about 33v! It seemed to open the variabilty of the sweep up big time.  I've monitored all the transistors and they don't seem to mind...  ALSO the "Bias Offset Mod", info provided here..  http://www.lynx.bc.ca/~jc/pedalsUnivibe.html
It allows additional versatility in getting the right warble....  It rocks! All that and the 12v 40ma bulb...  Also, I've found that the 7374 28v 40ma bulb, as RG stated in his PDF, works great as well...  Somethin about those 40ma bulbs.. The 25ma's work and have a good full range throb, but not what i was looking for...

Just my lowly opinion.. I'm happy with it now


Dave

[Davefx]

Also, he sells boards that supports the mods that are made for a wah shell, and also a sweet mU FET preamp in the front end of the vibe for a nice modern sound and extra versatility..  Also wanted to mention I used Smallbear's NSL7532 cells...  They do the job well. How bout a discount Steve!!!?? Kidding

Dave