Labelling your pedals

[Gyrofist]

Hey everyone,
I'm a bit new to this DIY thing, and I was just curious, how do you all label your pedals?
I'm thinking of free-handing/stencilling the lettering. I know it's not the easiest or fastest way to do it, but at least it's something that I have a little experience from building models and having to paint those. I'm just wondering, I know that the paint has a tendency to chip off of the enclosure unless treated in some way. Should I just use a clearcoat of enamel or laquer overtop of it? Would that solve the durability problem? If I should use a clearcoat, would it be fine for me to, since I'm getting an already painted enclosure from pedalpartsplus, and then I'll be painting the labels on myself? Will the clearcoat work just overtop of what's already there?

...that rant was confusing, but any help's appreciated.
Corey

[jefe]

I think the answer to all of your questions is "yes".. lol..

At this point, I have no experience with painting and clearcoating, so I'm probably not the best peson to be giving you advice.. but I've been reading a lot, asking other guys how they do it, etc. You should probably clearcoat the lettering if you don't want it to chip. You apparently can clearcoat over the powder coated enclosures from pedalpartsplus. Some guys prefer enamel clearcoat, some prefer laquer, but I've read that either will work.

Please take my advice with a large grain of salt.. like I said, I have no experience, I just have some reading under my belt. I'm interested to see the other responses.

[Mark Hammer]

I'm a rub-on transfer kinda guy.  Fortunately, I bought a big stack of "Letraset" style transfers several years back at a very good price, and have plenty left.

Since, such letters are generally only available in black, the hard part for some folks is what to do when you want to use a dark paint for the box.  I've been able to find white and even yellow lettering in hobby stores occasioally, and snap it up when I find it.

I find a light coat of clearcoat helps the letters to stick, and then they get two coats of clearcoat, baked on, after than.

[Gyrofist]

Ah yeah, I would have to bake it, wouldn't I...I don't have an extra toaster oven, dang. Is there any kind of clearcoat that could work that wouldn't need to be baked?

[Mark Hammer]

Well none of them *need* to be baked.  They just hold up better if they do.  It is entirely reasonable to spray on light coats, and go to town on them with a hair dryer.  The objective is simply to make sure that you don't have the surface of a coat dry while the part underneath is still curing.

Other folks here have had some innovative approaches to both lettering and graphics.  I suggest browsing through the thousands of pictures folks have posted for some ideas.  If you then want the methodological particulars of anything you see, you can always pop the person a PM.

[Gyrofist]

Okay, makes sense. I'll take a look, though that may take a while, but either way, thanks!