Wiring a 1P6T (mini Rotary from Small Bear)

[dap9]

   

Hi guys.  Working on a build that requires a 1P6T and I have the switch above.  On Steve's site, below the first pic, it says, "Connected, the 'R' pins are the rotor."  I don't quite get that.  Does that mean that connected they become the pole?  I've been googling for a while now and can't find info or diagrams.  I'm not 100% sure I get that pattern (I probably need to print it reversed to better understand what's happening there.)

I also have a 2P6T -   This one looks easier to solder the resistors right to it, but I like the idea of going off board to save some space (possibly).

Anyone have diagrams or advice on how to wire this up?  Thanks!

[twabelljr]

On the pattern you have shown using the 1P6T switch from Small Bear, pin R would be the actual swithing part. With the swicth soldered to the blue pads, let's call the red IN and the orange OUT. In position 1, signal or current will flow through the #1 (green) capacitor or resistor you chose to put across there, position 2, the #2 (brown) cap or resistor and so on. Put your ohm meter on R and touch the other pins as you turn the switch. You will figure it out. Same with th other switch. One of the center pins connects to 6 outer pins and the other center pin connects to the opposite 6 outer pins..

[dap9]

On the pattern you have shown using the 1P6T switch from Small Bear, pin R would be the actual swithing part. With the swicth soldered to the blue pads, let's call the red IN and the orange OUT. In position 1, signal or current will flow through the #1 (green) capacitor or resistor you chose to put across there, position 2, the #2 (brown) cap or resistor and so on. Put your ohm meter on R and touch the other pins as you turn the switch. You will figure it out. Same with th other switch. One of the center pins connects to 6 outer pins and the other center pin connects to the opposite 6 outer pins..

Thans a lot!  I was looking at that diagram 'upside down'.  Woulda been forever before I figured that out!  Thanks again.

[KazooMan]

That's my pcb from Steve's site.  This switch is really great for switching components and it is very compact.  However, the switch is very confusing, with TEN pins for a 1P6T rather than the expected seven.  I decided to make my life (and other's) easier by making the pcb.  There are two pins that connect to the single pole (the "rotor") and they are connected by the trace on the pcb.  Poles 1 through 4 are easy as they are in a stright line Poles 5 and 6 are in the other bank of pins with 5 on the end and 6 just inboard of that.  Notice on the pcb that my numbering for components goes 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 5.  I could have done something fancier to route the traces so that the order would be perfect, but I wanted the pcb to be as small as possible.  The two unused pins are actually connected internally to two of the pins from the 1 to 4 row but I don't recall just which poles are duplicated.  

For switching values of a number of small components (resistors or caps) just place them like twabelljr showed in his drawing.  If you need to use the switch for some larger components just eliminate the row of pads on the right of the pcb and connect them to pads 1 to 6 with wire.  

I have always been curious as to what this switch was originally designed for.  

[dap9]

That's my pcb from Steve's site.  This switch is really great for switching components and it is very compact.  However, the switch is very confusing, with TEN pins for a 1P6T rather than the expected seven.  I decided to make my life (and other's) easier by making the pcb.  There are two pins that connect to the single pole (the "rotor") and they are connected by the trace on the pcb.  Poles 1 through 4 are easy as they are in a stright line Poles 5 and 6 are in the other bank of pins with 5 on the end and 6 just inboard of that.  Notice on the pcb that my numbering for components goes 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 5.  I could have done something fancier to route the traces so that the order would be perfect, but I wanted the pcb to be as small as possible.  The two unused pins are actually connected internally to two of the pins from the 1 to 4 row but I don't recall just which poles are duplicated.  

For switching values of a number of small components (resistors or caps) just place them like twabelljr showed in his drawing.  If you need to use the switch for some larger components just eliminate the row of pads on the right of the pcb and connect them to pads 1 to 6 with wire.  

I have always been curious as to what this switch was originally designed for.  

Well thank you, Mr. Thomas!  Very much appreciated!

[KazooMan]

Glad to help.  I can see how the pcb diagram would cause confusion.  It's reversed for doing the toner transfer method of making the pcb. 

[twabelljr]

That's my pcb from Steve's site.

That is a nice little layout. Looks like a very small board to allow 6 different caps to select from as shown in the example picture. That layout could easily be incorporated into any existing design where several frequencies might want to be selected. Or just use it as a seperate board. One option could get you 3 different led clipping options. Tie both ends of 1 & 2 together so the diodes will be in parallel but facing opposite directions. Do the same for 3 /4 and 5/6. You would have to click 2 switch positions to get to set next clipping pair, but thats easy enough. 3 could even be paralleled for assymetrical clipping. There are ALOT of possible uses for this! Once again, great little pcb!

[dap9]

That's my pcb from Steve's site.

That is a nice little layout. Looks like a very small board to allow 6 different caps to select from as shown in the example picture. That layout could easily be incorporated into any existing design where several frequencies might want to be selected. Or just use it as a seperate board. One option could get you 3 different led clipping options. Tie both ends of 1 & 2 together so the diodes will be in parallel but facing opposite directions. Do the same for 3 /4 and 5/6. You would have to click 2 switch positions to get to set next clipping pair, but thats easy enough. 3 could even be paralleled for assymetrical clipping. There are ALOT of possible uses for this! Once again, great little pcb!

I think the guys over at BYOC had talked about that in the Screamer and Mouse builds.  Thanks for the reminder!