Fastening XLR jacks?

Started by spargo, April 04, 2011, 02:07:21 PM

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spargo

I recently got some Neutrik D-Series PCB mount XLR jacks for a project.  I'm going to mount them in a standard 125B enclosure.  The part is NC3FD-V-B.  I'm wondering what the best way to mount these to the enclosure is?  It appears I got unthreaded connectors, so I think my options may be with bolts or rivets.  Does anyone have any experience with these?

The website says countersunk mounting holes to accept M3 bolts or rivets.  I'm assuming M3 is the size?  I have no experience with rivets.

StereoKills

M3 is the thread size.
Your best bet is going to be drilling holes and using a tap to thread them.
Use a 2.5mm drill bit (.0984 American Standard size) and a M3 tap.
"Sometimes it takes a thousand notes to make one sound"

Skruffyhound

Might be better to just drill them straight through (3mm) and put a nut on the back, aluminium doesn't tap that well and is easy to cross thread on an enclosure wall that's only 2mm thick. IMHO. I didn't check out the part you specified though, check there is enough clearance.
Good Luck

Paul Marossy

I just use little flathead machine screws with nylon insert lock nuts, no threading the aluminum.

bluesman1218

Quote from: Paul Marossy on April 05, 2011, 10:14:50 AM
I just use little flathead machine screws with nylon insert lock nuts, no threading the aluminum.

+++
It's all about the tone!
Steve

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MoltenVoltage

Rivets are glorious.

I didn't look at the datasheet, but you will probably need 1/8"

Go with aluminum instead of steel.
MoltenVoltage.com for PedalSync audio control chips - make programmable and MIDI-controlled analog pedals!

bluesman1218

Quote from: MoltenVoltage on April 06, 2011, 12:57:36 AM
Rivets are glorious.

I didn't look at the datasheet, but you will probably need 1/8"

Go with aluminum instead of steel.

Personally, I prefer machine screws and locknuts. They won't loosen with use AND you can easily R&R (remove & reinstall) the jack, if needed, and without damaging the enclosure, jack or other components. Unless you have a really good rivet gun and the proper size rivet, it can be hard to always get a nice, tight installation. BTW, production work is usually done with hydraulic riveting tools.
It's all about the tone!
Steve

POPA - Plain Old Power Attenuator AVAILABLE for PURCHASE soon!
Silvertone 1482 rebuilt - switchable Tweed, tube reverb, Baxandall + / Little Angel Chorus build, tons of Modded pedals

MoltenVoltage

I build pedals all day long with rivets using a $5 hand tool from Harbor Freight and it works perfectly.  In the odd instance I need to remove a jack, I use a 1/8" drill bit to drill it out which takes all of 10 seconds and only takes the top off the rivet (I have yet to damage a jack or enclosure).

They are also much tighter than I could ever get when I used nuts and bolts, faster, and far less expensive.
MoltenVoltage.com for PedalSync audio control chips - make programmable and MIDI-controlled analog pedals!

Paul Marossy

Quote from: MoltenVoltage on April 06, 2011, 12:03:32 PM
I build pedals all day long with rivets using a $5 hand tool from Harbor Freight and it works perfectly.  In the odd instance I need to remove a jack, I use a 1/8" drill bit to drill it out which takes all of 10 seconds and only takes the top off the rivet (I have yet to damage a jack or enclosure).

They are also much tighter than I could ever get when I used nuts and bolts, faster, and far less expensive.

If I were doing mass production, that's probably what I would do - rivets. But for an occasional one-off, I'm still sticking with my way of doing it.  :icon_wink:

spargo

Just because of my greater experience with the old fashioned screws and nuts, I think I'm going to go that route.  Thanks.