first build fail.

[Jberg]

I tried making two different fuzz circuits over the passed few days.  Both of which failed.  I have lost motivation to try and get them working.  I have tried everything, it all looks fine but it won't work.  Therefore I am going to just start fresh.  I want to order a solderless bread board to test my circuits before i solder them,  get a new soldering iron (the one I have now is shot and probably not helping the fact that those first two didn't work)  and try and learn more about effects building so I am not as clueless.   
To start off trying to learn more i have a few questions
1.)  I see schematics with no place for the negative terminal of the battery.  Where does it go?  It makes no sense!
2.)  If you look at this* schematic where the diode comes from the collector of the transistor and the capacitor goes to to the pot does it that you connect the capacitor first and then the diode?  or could you flip them?   
3.)  Even though I use a heat sink my transistors still get really hot.  why is this? how can I prevent it?  Does it matter that I'm just using a pair of forceps as a heat sink?  they seemed to work pretty well!

[euronymous0001]

1) negative is ground
2) can't see the schem
3) transistor will get hot from soldering, but not scorching hot

[Jberg]

Sorry about that here it is!  http://www.home-wrecker.com/bazz.html

[euronymous0001]

2.)  If you look at this* schematic where the diode comes from the collector of the transistor and the capacitor goes to to the pot does it that you connect the capacitor first and then the diode?  or could you flip them?   

im sure that you are not asking the order which type of component or which component should be soldered first, the diode (1n914), capacitor (0.1uF), resistor (100k) are all connected to the collector of the transistor (2n5088) as shown on the perf layout. the other end of the diode (the side with the band) is connected to base of the tranny and the positive (+) of the 4u7/4.7u electrolytic capacitor.

flipping the components: you cannot flip the 4u7/4.7u cap, 1n914 diode and the 2n5088 tranny (assuming that you have them in the proper orientation).

hope that makes sense 

if you can post shot of your board that would help us in debugging your work

[petemoore]

I tried making two different fuzz circuits over the passed few days.  Both of which failed.
1  To avoid future failures, simply never let it beat you.
   I have lost motivation to try and get them working.  I have tried everything, it all looks fine but it won't work.
2 This is an excellent moment to set them aside in order to further consider 1, then read: "debugging, what to do when it doesn't work" sticky thread.
  Therefore I am going to just start fresh.  I want to order a solderless bread board to test my circuits before i solder them,  get a new soldering iron (the one I have now is shot and probably not helping the fact that those first two didn't work)  and try and learn more about effects building so I am not as clueless. 
  Failing at rule #1 is something first time second build failures may bend and break. That you have realized this is a brick wall which the current set of 'tools' [which of course includes debugging chops] isn't effective at breaking down. 
To start off trying to learn more i have a few questions
1.)  I see schematics with no place for the negative terminal of the battery.  Where does it go?  It makes no sense!
  I see no schematic.
2.)  If you look at this* schematic where the diode comes from the collector of the transistor and the capacitor goes to to the pot does it that you connect the capacitor first and then the diode?  or could you flip them?
  Choose node 1, count the number of connections, write them down, add notes..example:
  Node 1 = C1/5088Base/in914 anode. C1 is non-polarized, 5088 base is center lead, 1n914...orient stripe to arrows -->l--  point side.
  Node 2 = 5088Emitter/Input and output jack sleeves/volume control outside lug.
  2n5088: view data sheet for correct orientation after pinout is verified/re-checked.
  Both jack sleeve lugs and volume control ground assignment: use wire[s.
   There is no polarized capacitor, if there was observing polarity - arrows or whatever marking is required, the same is true for all polarized components when an arrow or a + or a - shows the polarity orientation.
3.)  Even though I use a heat sink my transistors still get really hot.  why is this? how can I prevent it?  Does it matter that I'm just using a pair of forceps as a heat sink?  they seemed to work pretty well!
  It seems like they should melt easier than what they seem to, I expected to read more about how they melted when...but haven't.
  Sockets allow transistor to never be heated.
  Good clean/tinned completely heated iron tip, 'refreshed' or very fresh-clean surfaces to be soldered [rubbing on cotton restores polish, there are more elaborate methods, absolutely no residues/slightly shiny seems to work for me YMMV]. Small amount of solder is needed to transfer the heat from the iron to surface #1, adding more solder now cools the thermal mass, another small amount may be needed to allow heat to flow to surface #2 [at this time the solder from reel has cooled and can most quickly be pre-reheated when touched to the hottest part for split second, the iron tip], once solder is allowed to flow across all the surfaces the heat will be trasmitted much more quickly, additional solder helps cool/slow this process, only enough to create a physical shape of sufficient physical strength is required [which isn't that much more, enough to cover the all surfaces and gaps].
  By controlling quick upramp of heat across-through all the component thermal masses [adding just enough cold solder early on], then finishing with adding cold solder heated just to where it'll 'flow fully', removing iron.
  The whole joint should be a fairly uniform high temperature, the solder can 'read' the melting temperature...but only when it's melting...lol, if a 'sticky bit' happens [the cooled reel solder refuses to recognize heat until the first few molcules break through the 'whatever is preventing melt> 'oil or residue?].
  All that in about 4 seconds, it helps to think through each motion/direction/timing etc. before approaching...also pre-think the smooth-no sudden moves-clean exit move.
   Usually when all the preparations are complete the solder/heat/flow thing gets into a rythm by which the joints flow, if a piece of crud interferes, start at step 1 [crud from insulation touch or anything else...amazing how little residue it takes to interfere with flow because residue-oil tends to disperse invisibly across and around all surfaces.

[Jberg]

Thank you for all the replies!  I appreciate it a lot!  I'm not going to let this failure beat me!  That is not my personality!  That is just more reason to succeed!     

[axemurderforhire]

I still have a lot of roblems with building pedals, even the simplest one's. i found a lot of it was down to bad wiring and even when i bread board projects i stil run in to difficulty. But as you said yourself dont give up on it cause its great when the FINALLY work 

[petemoore]

  There's really no failure in it. Those who study get taught, this is always a success.
  It's all cause and effect, the electrons are now doing exactly what they are ''supposed to'', trick is to cause them to work' the way you want them to.  They consistantly follow 'the rules' which vary greatly but never bend.